What Is Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a lab-crafted lipid blend created by attaching a naturally derived base called dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate to three stabilising alcohols: behenyl, isostearyl and a mix of plant sterols known as phytosterols. The fatty acids used to build the molecule usually come from plant oils such as soybean or rapeseed while the sterols originate from vegetable sources like soybeans or pine pulp. Chemists combine and purify these raw materials through controlled esterification steps, producing a soft, buttery substance that melts near skin temperature.
The ingredient emerged in the early 2000s when formulators looked for plant-based substitutes to mineral oil that could give rich texture without feeling greasy. Its balanced structure lets it act both as a conditioner and as a texture enhancer, making it popular in modern clean-beauty and vegan lines.
You will often spot Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate in leave-on hair masks, deep conditioners, anti-aging face creams, overnight moisturisers, solid cleansing balms and nourishing lipstick bullets where it adds cushion and glide.
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi-tasking lipid lends several performance perks to skin and hair products:
- Hair conditioning: Forms a light film along the hair shaft that smooths cuticles, reduces frizz and boosts softness for easier comb-through
- Skin conditioning: Leaves a velvety after-feel, helps repair the skin barrier and improves suppleness
- Emollient: Fills gaps between surface skin cells to lock in moisture giving formulas a creamy slip without heaviness
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens emulsions and balms naturally so brands can cut back on synthetic gelling agents while achieving a rich, stable texture
Who Can Use Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Most skin types can enjoy this silky lipid. Dry and mature skin benefit the most because the ingredient replenishes lost oils and softens rough spots. Normal and combination skin usually tolerate it well too thanks to its non-sticky finish. Very oily or acne-prone skin might find rich formulas containing high levels of this molecule a bit heavy as it can sit on the surface if sebum production is already high.
The blend is sourced entirely from plant oils and plant sterols so it suits both vegetarians and vegans without compromise.
Current safety data show no known reproductive or developmental risks from topical use which means products containing this ingredient are generally viewed as safe for pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice so anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a qualified doctor before starting a new product.
The molecule is chemically stable in sunlight and does not make skin more sensitive to UV rays so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It is also fragrance free and free of common irritants making it a gentle option for people with fragrance allergies or reactive skin.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and most users will not notice any of them when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild pore congestion in very oily or acne-prone skin when used in heavy leave-on products
- Rare contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to plant sterols or fatty alcohols
- Greasy or weighed-down feel on fine hair if applied in excess
- Scalp buildup after repeated use of rich masks or conditioners without thorough cleansing
If you notice itching, redness or other irritation stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
This ingredient is a rich ester built from fatty acids and fatty alcohols, which can sit on the surface of the skin yet it still melts readily and spreads thinly. Its larger molecular size and branched structure lower its likelihood of wedging deeply into pores, keeping the clogging potential moderate rather than high. Formulas that use it in small to medium amounts usually feel cushioned rather than greasy so most users will not experience breakouts. Still, those with very oily or congestion-prone skin may notice occasional bumps if the overall product is already heavy.
In short, it is generally acceptable for acne-prone users when present in balanced formulations but may be a touch too occlusive if used as a primary oil phase.
Summary
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate works as a skin and hair conditioner, an emollient and a natural thickener. Its blended plant sterols and fatty alcohols create a soft buttery texture that fills gaps between skin cells, smooths hair cuticles and boosts the body of creams, balms and masks without synthetic waxes. While not a household name, it has gained steady popularity in clean beauty lines looking to replace mineral oil and silicones with plant-based lipids.
Current data indicate it is low risk for irritation or sensitisation, vegan friendly and stable in light and heat. As with any new cosmetic ingredient, try a small patch first to confirm personal compatibility then enjoy the silky finish it brings to your routine.