What Is Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate is an ester created by linking behenyl alcohol, natural plant sterols known as phytosterols, and a special form of linoleic acid called dimer dilinoleic acid. The behenyl part usually comes from vegetable oils like rapeseed while phytosterols are isolated from sources such as soy or corn. Dimer dilinoleic acid is produced by gently joining two linoleic acid molecules together, which thickens the fatty chain and gives the final ester its rich feel.
Chemists began exploring this ester in the early 2000s when brands were looking for plant based options that could soften skin and hair without leaving a greasy film. By blending long chain alcohols with phytosterols and a flexible fatty acid, formulators found they could get the glide of silicone but keep the label naturally inspired. The process involves reacting the behenyl alcohol and phytosterols with dimer dilinoleic acid under heat and vacuum, then purifying the result to remove any leftover raw materials.
Today you will spot Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate in rich face creams, overnight masks, anti-aging lotions, hair conditioners, styling balms and balm-to-oil cleansers. It often teams up with other emollients to boost softness, improve spreadability and add a silky after-feel.
Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester gives formulators several practical benefits:
- Hair conditioning – coats the hair shaft so strands feel smoother, detangle more easily and pick up a healthy shine
- Skin conditioning – forms a light protective film that leaves skin feeling soft supple and comforted
- Emollient – fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface reducing roughness and helping dry spots look and feel better
- Viscosity controlling – thickens creams and lotions just enough to create a lush cushiony texture without making them heavy
Who Can Use Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate
This ester is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit most from its emollient cushion while normal and combination skin enjoy the silky feel without an oily residue. Very oily or acne prone complexions usually handle it fine because the molecule is bulky and does not sink deeply into pores, though extremely breakout prone users may prefer lighter alternatives.
All hair textures can use it. Coarse, frizzy or chemically treated strands see the biggest smoothing boost yet finer hair is not weighed down when the ingredient is used at standard levels.
The raw materials come from plant oils and plant sterols so products containing Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate are typically suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Always double check the full ingredient list in case the formula also includes animal derived waxes or proteins.
No research links this ester to hormonal effects or developmental concerns so it is considered low risk for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run new skincare or haircare products past a doctor just to be safe.
Unlike some essential oils and citrus extracts the ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Normal sun protection practices remain recommended but there is no added need for special precautions.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues that could occur but they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild irritation – a small number of users may notice redness or stinging if their skin is extremely sensitive
- Contact dermatitis – rare allergic responses can present as itchiness flaking or rash
- Pomade acne – heavy leave-in hair products containing high levels might trigger breakouts along the hairline in acne prone individuals
If any discomfort rash or breakouts appear discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. The molecule is large and sits primarily on the surface, giving slip and softness without easily sliding into pores where it could harden or mix with sebum. Formulators also tend to use it at moderate levels, further lowering the clogging risk.
Most acne-prone users can use products containing Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate without issues, though extremely congestion-prone skin might still prefer lighter textures.
Because it often travels with other rich oils and butters, check the full formula if you are very sensitive to pore-blocking ingredients.
Summary
Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate works as a skin and hair conditioner, emollient and mild thickener by forming a silky film that smooths rough spots, adds softness and builds a richer feel in creams and conditioners. Its plant-derived backbone gives it a naturally soft touch similar to silicone but keeps labels looking green.
It is a quiet achiever rather than a headline ingredient, so you will mostly find it in mid to high-end moisturizers, masks and styling balms where texture is a selling point.
Safety studies and real-world use show it is low-irritation and low-comedogenic, making it suitable for nearly all skin and hair types. Like any new cosmetic ingredient, perform a patch test when trying a product that contains it to be on the safe side.