What Is Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine?
Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine is a lab-created derivative of glycine, one of the body’s simplest amino acids. Chemists attach two caprylyl (eight-carbon) fatty chains to the glycine backbone, giving the molecule its full name N,N-bis[2-octylamino)ethyl] glycine. These fatty chains help the ingredient blend well with oils while keeping a water-friendly head, so it can sit comfortably in both watery and creamy products.
The ingredient first appeared in Japanese skin care in the early 2000s, when formulators were searching for mild alternatives to traditional preservatives. By tweaking glycine with caprylyl groups, researchers discovered they could create a molecule that discourages unwanted microbial growth without the sensitizing issues sometimes seen with older preservatives.
Production starts with plant-derived caprylic acid, usually sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. The caprylic acid is converted into caprylyl amine, then reacted with an activated form of glycine under controlled pH and temperature. The resulting compound is purified, dried and milled into a fine powder or supplied as a concentrated liquid for easy dosing.
You will most often spot Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine in rinse-off cleansers, micellar waters, toners, lightweight lotions, sheet masks, hydrating gels and anti-aging serums. Formulators like it because it lets them create low-preservative or preservative-free claims while still protecting the product from spoilage.
Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas this ingredient plays one main role that delivers multiple practical benefits.
As an antimicrobial it limits the growth of bacteria, yeast and mold inside the product. This helps keep textures stable, colors true and active ingredients effective throughout the shelf life. Because it works well in a broad pH range it can replace or reduce stronger preservatives, making the final product gentler on sensitive skin.
Who Can Use Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine
Most skin types, including oily, combination, normal and sensitive, can comfortably use products that contain Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine because the ingredient is non-comedogenic and low in irritation potential. Very dry or compromised skin may notice a slight tight feeling when the ingredient is used at higher levels in leave-on formulas, so pairing such products with a rich moisturizer is helpful.
Production relies on plant-derived caprylic acid and synthetic processing, not animal by-products, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No current data suggests that Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine poses a special risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products.
The molecule does not increase photosensitivity, so daytime use does not require extra sun protection beyond the usual daily SPF recommendation.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine differ from one person to another. The following points outline possible side effects, although they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging, especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Transient dryness if used in high concentrations without complementary hydrators
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Interaction with cationic preservatives that can reduce antimicrobial efficacy
If any discomfort or adverse reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine sits at a very low use level in formulas and has a balanced mix of water-loving and oil-loving parts, so it does not tend to clog pores. Its molecular size is moderate and it is usually present at under 1 percent, which further reduces any risk of buildup inside follicles.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because it is often paired with lightweight hydrators and used in rinse-off or fluid leave-on formats, the overall formula texture rarely feels heavy or occlusive.
Summary
Bis-Caprylylaminoethyl Glycine is mainly an antimicrobial helper that keeps skincare products free of bacteria, yeast and mold. It works by inserting its fatty tails into microbial membranes while its glycine head stays in the water phase, disrupting the cell and preventing growth.
The ingredient enjoys quiet popularity among formulators who want to lower traditional preservative loads, although it is still somewhat niche compared with older options like phenoxyethanol.
Safety data show a low irritation and allergy profile when used at recommended doses, making it generally safe for everyday skincare. As with any new product it is smart to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.