Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide Np) Poloxamer 407: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide Np) Poloxamer 407?

Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 is a lab-crafted hybrid molecule that joins a skin-identical ceramide to Poloxamer 407, a well known cosmetic polymer. Ceramides are lipids that naturally occur in our skin and play a key role in keeping the surface strong and resilient. By bonding the ceramide to Poloxamer 407, chemists create a water-compatible ingredient that spreads easily, delivers moisture and helps other formula parts stay evenly mixed.

The concept arose in the early 2000s when formulators looked for ways to boost ceramide stability in water-based products. Traditional ceramides tend to clump in water but once linked to Poloxamer 407 they stay dispersed, giving brands more freedom to add barrier-supporting lipids to light lotions, gels and serums.

Manufacturing begins with plant-derived fatty acids that are converted into ceramide NP. This ceramide is then chemically “coupled” to Poloxamer 407 through a carboxy reaction that locks the two structures together. The finished ingredient is purified, dried and milled into a fine powder that dissolves in warm water phases during production.

You will most often spot Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 in moisturizers, barrier repair creams, anti-aging serums, sheet masks, overnight masks and post-procedure calming lotions. Its ease of use in both water-rich and emulsion systems makes it popular in everything from budget drugstore lines to advanced derma ranges.

Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide Np) Poloxamer 407’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 is valued for the following action:

Skin conditioning: The ceramide segment reinforces the skin’s protective barrier, helping reduce water loss and dryness while the Poloxamer part ensures smooth application. The result is softer, more supple skin with improved resilience against daily stressors.

Who Can Use Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide Np) Poloxamer 407

This ingredient is gentle enough for all main skin types including normal, dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin. Its barrier-supporting nature makes it especially helpful for dry or compromised skin that needs extra moisture retention. People with very oily or acne-prone skin can still use it because the molecule is water-compatible and lightweight, so it will not leave a heavy greasy film.

Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 is made from plant-derived fatty acids and a synthetic polymer, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-based raw materials or by-products are used in its standard production.

Current data shows no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor to be on the safe side.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sunscreen use is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide Np) Poloxamer 407 can vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is correctly formulated.

  • Mild redness or stinging especially on very sensitive skin if the product also contains other actives like acids or retinoids
  • Temporary itching in rare cases where the skin is already compromised or inflamed
  • Allergic contact dermatitis an uncommon immune response to either the ceramide portion or other formula components
  • Watery eyes if a high-concentration product is applied too close to the eye area

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and seek medical advice if irritation persists or worsens.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 is mostly water-compatible thanks to the Poloxamer backbone, so it rinses or absorbs without leaving an occlusive oily film that can trap dead cells in pores. The attached ceramide adds lightweight lipids that mimic those already found in skin rather than heavy plant oils or waxes, which keeps the clogging risk low. In finished products it is typically used at modest percentages, further reducing chances of congestion.

Because of its low rating this ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Formulas that pair it with heavier emollients, silicones or butters could raise the overall comedogenicity of the finished product, so always consider the full ingredient list rather than a single component.

Summary

Bis-(Carboxy Ceramide NP) Poloxamer 407 conditions skin by reinforcing the lipid barrier, locking in moisture and helping formulas spread evenly. It does this by combining a skin-identical ceramide with a water-friendly polymer, which keeps the ceramide stable and bioavailable in lotions, gels and serums.

While not as famous as basic ceramide NP or trendy actives like niacinamide, this hybrid molecule is gaining quiet popularity among brands that want barrier support in lighter textures. You will find it more often in mid to premium skincare aimed at dryness recovery and post-treatment care.

Current safety data shows a very low irritation and allergy profile when used in standard cosmetic levels, so most people can enjoy it with confidence. As with any new skincare addition it is wise to perform a quick patch test first to make sure your skin responds well.

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