What Is Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer?
Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together fatty acids from plant oils with a small molecule called ethylenediamine, then capping the chain with wax-like dioctadecylamine. The result is a large, stable molecule that looks and behaves like a soft solid wax. It first appeared in the late 1990s when formulators searched for plant-based thickeners to replace petroleum waxes in creams and lotions. Today manufacturers combine refined dilinoleic acid, sourced mainly from soybean or sunflower oil, with ethylenediamine under heat and pressure. After the reaction is complete, dioctadecylamine is added to “seal” the polymer and give it a smooth feel. The finished material is purified, cooled and milled into a fine powder or soft flakes.
You will usually spot this copolymer in rich moisturizers, overnight masks, anti-aging serums, sunscreens, hair conditioners and color-stay makeup. Its waxy nature helps create products that stay put yet feel silky on skin and hair.
Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in a formula
- Binding: It holds other ingredients together so pigments, actives and oils stay evenly mixed over time. That gives creams a uniform look and prevents makeup from separating in the jar or on your face.
- Viscosity controlling: The wax-like backbone thickens watery mixtures, turning thin liquids into creamy textures without leaving a heavy or greasy feel. This lets formulators fine-tune spreadability and cushion, making products more pleasant to apply.
Who Can Use Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer
This waxy copolymer suits most skin types including dry, normal, oily and combination because it is considered inert and sits on the surface rather than sinking deep into pores. Extremely acne-prone users may prefer lighter formulas as very thick emulsions can feel occlusive, though the ingredient itself is not highly comedogenic. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since it has no fragrance or reactive acids.
The material is synthesised from plant oils and contains no animal-derived content, so products that rely on it are generally acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full ingredient list though, as the rest of the formula may contain animal by-products such as beeswax or collagen.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Current safety data show low absorption through skin and no hormonal activity. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare product with their doctor to be safe.
The copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and will not interfere with sunscreen filters. It is also stable across a wide pH range so there are no known conflicts with common actives like vitamin C or retinoids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below describe possible effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation
- Contact allergy in individuals already sensitised to amide or amine compounds
- Temporary pore congestion or small breakouts in very oily skin if the final product is overly rich
- Eye irritation if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5. The molecule is very large and sits mainly on the skin’s surface so it is unlikely to slip into pores and cause blockages. Formulas that use it are usually balanced with lighter oils or water, further reducing clogging risk. That said, if the finished product is extremely thick or occlusive very oily skin might still feel weighed down.
Most people prone to acne can use products containing this copolymer without trouble.
Because the rating comes from the finished blend as well as the single ingredient always consider the whole product texture when shopping for breakout-friendly skincare.
Summary
Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer mainly acts as a binder and viscosity controller. Its long waxy chains grip onto oils pigments and active ingredients so they stay evenly mixed while also thickening watery bases into creamy spreads that feel smooth rather than greasy.
The ingredient is moderately popular, often chosen by formulators who want a plant-based alternative to mineral or animal waxes in moisturizers masks sunscreens and long-wear makeup. You will not see it in every product on the shelf but it pops up often enough to be familiar to ingredient watchers.
Current safety data show it is skin-friendly non-sensitizing and has very low absorption. Still everyone’s skin is different so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this copolymer to make sure it agrees with you.