What Is Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer?
Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer is a lab-crafted ingredient made by linking together dilinoleic acid, propanediol and dodecylhexadecanol. These building blocks are largely sourced from plant oils and renewable corn sugar, giving the material a partly bio-based profile that appeals to brands looking for greener chemistry. Chemists first explored this copolymer in the early 2000s while searching for lightweight alternatives to heavy mineral oils. Its silky touch and film-forming ability quickly caught the attention of formulators, so the ingredient began appearing in modern moisturizers and color cosmetics within the last decade.
Manufacturing starts with dilinoleic acid and propanediol undergoing an esterification reaction. Dodecylhexadecanol is then grafted on through controlled polymerization, creating a stable chain that holds all three components in a balanced ratio. The resulting copolymer is purified, filtered and delivered as a soft wax or viscous liquid that melts easily into creams.
You will most often find Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer in facial moisturizers, lip balms, hydrating foundations, overnight masks, hair smoothing serums and anti-aging lotions where a non-greasy but cushiony feel is desired.
Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient supports both the sensory feel and the performance of a formula.
- Skin conditioning – Forms a breathable layer that helps reduce moisture loss, leaving skin softer and more flexible while boosting the longevity of active ingredients
- Emollient – Fills in microscopic gaps on the skin surface, creating a smooth even texture and delivering a silky slip without a heavy oily afterfeel
Who Can Use Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer
This soft waxy emollient suits most skin types because it absorbs quickly yet leaves a light protective film. Dry or mature skin will appreciate the extra cushioning while normal and combination skin benefit from its non greasy slip. Oily or acne-prone users can usually tolerate it but should watch for congestion if their skin reacts to richer textures since the ingredient does add an occlusive layer.
The material is produced from plant oils and bio based propanediol so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles with no animal derivatives involved in its supply chain.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns so products containing the copolymer are generally considered fine during pregnancy and breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing parents should check with their health professional before starting any new skincare routine.
The copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it has no known interaction with UV filters or self tanners.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used properly.
Temporary redness or mild stinging in individuals with very sensitive or compromised skin barriers
Contact allergy marked by itching or small rash in people already sensitized to fatty acid esters
Clogged pores or minor breakouts in users whose skin is highly prone to comedones when exposed to richer emollients
Greasy hair feel or scalp buildup if the ingredient is over applied in leave-on hair products
If any adverse effect occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5. Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer has a fairly large molecular structure and spreads thinly on the skin which limits its ability to settle deep into pores, yet it still forms a light occlusive film that can trap sebum in people who clog easily. Most users will not see breakouts, but very acne-prone individuals might notice congestion if the rest of the formula is also rich.
Overall this ingredient is generally suitable for breakout-prone skin, though those with highly reactive or oily complexions should monitor how their skin responds.
Comedogenicity can also be influenced by the entire product’s blend and how heavily it is applied, so even a low-moderate score may shift depending on usage habits.
Summary
Bis-Dodecylhexadecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer acts mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. Its branched fatty chains glide over the surface to fill in tiny gaps, then settle into a soft breathable layer that slows water loss and leaves skin smooth and cushioned. Because it melts at skin temperature it also boosts spreadability and slip, helping creams and color products feel silkier and last longer.
The copolymer is gaining quiet popularity in newer clean beauty and hybrid makeup formulas thanks to its partly bio-based origin and feather-light finish, though it is still less common than classic esters like isopropyl myristate.
Current safety data show it is non-sensitising for most people with only a low risk of pore clogging. As with any cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a new product first to be sure your skin agrees.