What Is Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate?
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate is a synthetic polymer created by combining polycaprolactone, a biodegradable polyester, with trimethylhexyl and hexyl dicarbamate groups. These added groups help the polymer form flexible, durable films once it dries on the skin. First developed for industrial coatings that needed a lightweight protective layer, the material drew the attention of cosmetic chemists in the early 2000s when they noticed its smooth finish and skin adherence. To produce it, manufacturers start with caprolactone monomers that undergo ring-opening polymerization, then chemically link the resulting chains with diisocyanate and alcohol components to introduce the carbamate segments. The final product is a high-molecular-weight resin supplied as a clear viscous liquid or fine powder.
Today you will mostly find Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate in long-wear makeup, lash and brow gels, liquid lipsticks, transfer-resistant foundations, sunscreens and certain hair-styling products. Formulators like it because it creates a breathable yet sturdy film that helps pigments stay put while resisting water, sweat and oil.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In personal care formulas this ingredient serves one primary purpose that delivers several practical advantages.
As a film forming agent it spreads into a thin uniform layer that locks active ingredients and colorants onto the skin or hair. This film improves wear time, enhances water resistance and minimizes smudging or flaking. The flexible nature of the polymer prevents cracking so the finish stays comfortable and natural looking throughout the day.
Who Can Use Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate
This polymer suits most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry because it forms a light breathable film that is unlikely to clog pores or draw out moisture. Sensitive skin users generally tolerate it since it is non reactive and has no fragrance or alcohol, though extremely reactive or dermatitis-prone skin should still monitor for any discomfort if layered in heavy, long-wear formulas.
The ingredient is fully synthetic with no animal derived raw materials so it is considered appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians.
No research shows that the polymer penetrates deeply or interferes with hormone activity, so products containing it are not expected to pose special risks to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any new cosmetic product with their physician to be safe.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate does not increase photosensitivity and can actually help keep sunscreen actives in place, making it suitable for daytime wear. It is also compatible with most common skincare ingredients like antioxidants, peptides and UV filters without causing instability.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate differ from person to person. The points below list potential but uncommon reactions. When used in well-formulated products most people experience none of these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as itching or redness, typically in very sensitive individuals
- Contact dermatitis in users allergic to carbamate compounds, though cases are rare
- Transient clogged pores or breakouts if very thick layers are left on oily acne-prone skin
- Eye stinging or watering if mascara or brow gel containing the polymer migrates into the eyes
- Heat rash or a heavy feel in extremely hot humid conditions when multiple film formers are layered together
If you notice any discomfort or lingering reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate is a large, inert polymer that sits on the surface of skin rather than soaking into pores, so it has little tendency to trap oil or dead cells the way heavier plant oils or waxes can. Occasional breakouts may occur if the ingredient is layered in very thick, occlusive formulas but in most products it is present at low to moderate levels and forms a breathable film.
Suitable for acne-prone skin in the majority of cases.
Keep in mind that overall product design matters; pairing this polymer with high levels of heavy emollients or not removing long-wear makeup thoroughly at night can raise the chance of congestion.
Summary
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Trimethylhexyl/Hexyl Dicarbamate is a film former that helps makeup, sunscreen and hair products stay put by creating a flexible, water-resistant layer on the surface of skin or hair. It works by spreading into a thin uniform film that locks pigments and actives in place while remaining comfortable and breathable.
The polymer is not a household name yet but it is gaining quiet popularity in long-wear cosmetics and sports-focused sunscreens where staying power is key.
Current data show it is low risk for irritation, non-sensitizing and largely non-comedogenic, making it safe for most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a new product first just to be sure it agrees with your individual skin.