Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer?

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer is a lab-made polymer created by linking together small building blocks like 1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol and a specialized isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The result is a large, flexible molecule that can form a thin, even layer when spread on skin or hair. While the name sounds complex, the ingredient simply belongs to a family of film-forming agents often used in modern cosmetics.

Its roots trace back to the 1990s when chemists were searching for lightweight alternatives to heavy waxes and oils. By tweaking the ratio of its starting materials, they found a way to produce a see-through film that feels barely there yet protects the underlying surface. Over time this polymer gained favor with formulators who wanted longer wear and smoother textures in everything from foundations to hair gels.

Production starts with controlled heating of the monomers in large reactors. Catalysts guide the reaction so the molecules connect in a predictable order. After reaching the desired chain length, the mixture is purified, cooled and ground into a fine powder or dispersed in a liquid carrier. This ready-to-use form is then shipped to cosmetic manufacturers worldwide.

You will typically spot Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer in long-wear makeup, peel-off masks, hair styling gels, waterproof sunscreens and some anti-aging serums that aim to lock active ingredients close to the skin.

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient mainly serves one purpose in beauty formulas, but it is an important one.

Film forming: When applied, the polymer spreads into a thin continuous layer that dries quickly. This film helps makeup resist smudging, keeps moisturizers from rubbing off, improves shine in hair products, supports peel-off mask removal and can slow water loss from the skin so it stays hydrated longer.

Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer

This film former is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily complexions, because it feels light and non-greasy once it sets. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it as well since the polymer is inert and fragrance-free, but anyone with a known allergy to acrylate or polyurethane materials should proceed carefully.

The ingredient is synthetic and contains no animal-derived raw materials so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

There is no research suggesting it is harmful for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used on the skin. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run the product past a doctor to be safe.

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so extra sun precautions are unnecessary beyond normal daily SPF use.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical application vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential side effects and most users will not notice any problems when the polymer is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Transient skin dryness if the film reduces natural moisture exchange on already very dry skin
  • Mild redness or itching in individuals sensitive to polyurethane or acrylate chemistry
  • Contact dermatitis in rare cases of true allergy
  • Eye irritation or watering if the raw ingredient or a product containing it accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Buildup or dullness on hair after repeated use of styling products without proper cleansing

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

This polymer has a large molecular size and stays mainly on the surface, so it is unlikely to block pores. It is not oily or waxy, which further lowers the chance of clogging. A rating of 1 reflects its low but not zero risk because any film that sits on skin could trap excess oil or debris if layered too thickly or not cleansed off.

Most people prone to acne should find it workable, especially in lightweight formulas.

Those using very rich or multiple film-forming products may want to double-cleanse to avoid buildup that can indirectly lead to breakouts.

Summary

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-14 Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer is mainly a film former. It spreads into a thin coat that adds staying power to makeup, helps masks peel off in one piece, keeps hair styles in place and slows moisture loss from skin by creating a light barrier.

The ingredient is moderately popular in long-wear and peel-off products but not as common as older film formers like PVP or acrylates, partly due to its higher cost.

Safety profiles show it is well tolerated for most skin types with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. Still, every skin is different so doing a small patch test when trying a new product is a smart move.

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