Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/Dmpa/Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/Dmpa/Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer?

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/DMPA/Neopentyl Glycol/IPDI Copolymer is a synthetic urethane polymer created by reacting several building blocks: a short-chain poly(1,4-butanediol) segment, dimethylolpropionic acid for extra stability, neopentyl glycol for flexibility and moisture resistance, and isophorone diisocyanate as the linking agent. The finished chains are capped with HEMA, a common monomer in nail and dental materials, giving the polymer good compatibility with other acrylate or methacrylate ingredients found in cosmetics.

This ingredient emerged from advancements in polyurethane chemistry during the late twentieth century, when formulators looked for film-forming agents that could offer strong adhesion without the brittleness of older resins. By tweaking the backbone with neopentyl glycol and dimethylolpropionic acid, chemists achieved a balance of durability, clarity, and flexibility suitable for beauty products.

Manufacturing begins with controlled polymerization of 1,4-butanediol units until the desired chain length is reached. Dimethylolpropionic acid and neopentyl glycol are then introduced, followed by reaction with isophorone diisocyanate to form urethane linkages. Finally, hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) end-caps the polymer, enabling it to co-polymerize or crosslink with other acrylic ingredients during product curing. The result is a viscous, pourable resin supplied to cosmetic labs for easy blending.

You will mostly find this copolymer in nail gels, long-wearing nail polishes, peel-off masks, liquid eye shadows, waterproof eyeliners and certain transfer-resistant lip products. In each case it helps the formula grip to skin or nails and maintain a smooth, flexible finish.

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/Dmpa/Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The main role of this copolymer in beauty products is binding. By forming a thin flexible film it keeps pigments, shimmer particles, and other actives evenly dispersed and locked in place once the product dries. This improves wear time, prevents cracking or flaking, and helps the finished makeup or nail coating resist water, sweat, and everyday friction.

Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/Dmpa/Neopentyl Glycol/Ipdi Copolymer

This film-forming polymer is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry because it sits on the surface and does not draw or lock in excessive oil or moisture. Sensitive or eczema-prone users can also tolerate it in most cases, though any adhesive resin has a small chance of causing irritation on already compromised skin.

The ingredient is entirely synthetic and contains no animal-derived substances, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current data show no specific hazards for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the polymer is used in topical cosmetics. Its large molecular size keeps it from penetrating deeply, reducing systemic exposure. This is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should review any product with their doctor to stay on the safe side.

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/DMPA/Neopentyl Glycol/IPDI Copolymer does not increase sensitivity to sunlight, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids because it is largely inert once cured.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical use of Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/DMPA/Neopentyl Glycol/IPDI Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions, but they are uncommon for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and cured.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to acrylate or urethane resins
  • Nail plate dryness or brittleness after repeated use in gel manicures
  • Eye irritation if the uncured product accidentally gets into the eyes

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. This copolymer has a very large molecular size and creates a surface film rather than sinking into pores, so it cannot block them or feed acne-causing bacteria. Its inert, non-oily nature keeps it from mixing with skin sebum, which is why formulators consider it non-comedogenic.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Because it is usually paired with fast-evaporating solvents in nail and long-wear makeup formulas, any residue left behind after curing is minimal, further lowering clogging potential.

Summary

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-22/DMPA/Neopentyl Glycol/IPDI Copolymer serves mainly as a binder and film former. Once applied it links into a flexible mesh that anchors pigments, shimmer and actives so they stay even, resist water and hold up against daily wear. The urethane backbone supplies strength while the HEMA end caps let it crosslink with other acrylic ingredients for extra durability.

It shows up most often in gel nail systems, peel-off masks and long-wear eye or lip products, so its use is popular inside those niches but relatively uncommon in mainstream skin care.

Current data indicate it is safe for topical use, with irritation or allergy being rare. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product first to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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