What Is Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer?
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is a synthetic film-forming agent created by reacting diglycol adipate with isophorone diisocyanate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA). The reaction links these building blocks into a flexible, lightweight polymer that adheres well to skin and nails. The ingredient emerged in the early 2000s when formulators were looking for durable yet comfortable coatings for long-wear nail lacquers and makeup. Production begins with adipic acid and diglycol, which are condensed to form diglycol adipate. This intermediate is then reacted with isophorone diisocyanate to add hard-wearing urethane segments. Finally, HEMA is grafted on to make the polymer curable under UV or visible light, allowing it to set quickly in finished products.
You’ll most often spot this copolymer in gel nail polishes, long-lasting topcoats, peel-off face masks, liquid eyeliners, transfer-resistant foundations and certain waterproof brow products. Its ability to form a smooth, breathable film lets these formulas stay put through daily wear without feeling heavy or stiff.
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for a single, but highly valuable, function that elevates many modern formulas.
Film forming: Once applied the polymer dries into a thin flexible film that locks pigments and active ingredients onto the skin or nail surface. This improves wear time, boosts water and smudge resistance and helps products maintain a fresh just-applied look for hours.
Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer
This film forming polymer is generally considered suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily because it sits on the surface and has very low potential to penetrate or disrupt the skin barrier. Those with extremely acne prone skin may want to monitor how their skin responds when products containing high levels of the polymer are layered since an occlusive film can occasionally trap oil and debris.
The ingredient is fully synthetic and does not rely on animal derived raw materials so it is normally appropriate for vegans and vegetarians, although people who follow these lifestyles should still verify the full product formula with the brand.
No data suggest any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the polymer is used topically in cosmetics. The molecule is large, non reactive and not expected to absorb into the bloodstream. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review their skincare routine with a qualified healthcare provider before use just to be safe.
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is not known to increase photosensitivity so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Sunscreen is still recommended during the day, but for routine reasons unrelated to this ingredient.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer can vary. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the finished product has been formulated correctly.
- Contact dermatitis or allergic rash if someone is sensitive to residual acrylate or isocyanate traces
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, usually short lived and more common on compromised skin
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes before it sets
- Temporary nail dehydration or brittleness after repeated gel polish application and removal
- Breakouts in very acne prone skin if a thick film traps sebum and bacteria
If you notice any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is a large inert polymer that stays on the surface, contains no oils or fatty acids and has minimal affinity for pore lining lipids. While it forms a light film that could theoretically trap excess sebum if applied in thick layers its own contribution to clogging is very low. Therefore it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin when used in well balanced formulas. People who already experience congestion from heavy film formers may still want to monitor how their skin responds, especially with leave-on or multi-layer gel nail products.
Summary
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is a synthetic film former that dries into a flexible breathable layer locking pigments and actives in place so makeup, nail polish and peel-off masks last longer resist water and stay smudge free. It accomplishes this thanks to its urethane and methacrylate segments which crosslink quickly under UV or visible light creating a durable yet comfortable coating.
The ingredient is moderately popular in gel nail systems and certain long wear makeup but it is less common in everyday skincare because its main talent lies in decorative products that need high durability.
Safety data show a low risk of irritation or sensitisation for most users. It is non penetrating non phototoxic and rates very low for comedogenicity. As with any new cosmetic though, patch testing a small area first is a smart way to confirm personal compatibility.