What Is Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer?
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is a man-made polymer created by linking together adipic acid, diglycol or glycol units and a urethane building block called isophorone diisocyanate. The finished material is a clear flexible resin that sits on the surface of skin or nails. It was first explored in the late 1990s when formulators looked for alternatives to traditional film formers that could bend with the skin without cracking. Production starts with plant-derived or petrochemical glycols and adipic acid that are esterified then reacted with isophorone diisocyanate under carefully controlled heat. Finally hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) is added so the polymer can cure under UV lamps, a step useful in nail gels.
Because of its smooth finish and durability the ingredient is often found in peel-off face masks, long-wear foundation, waterproof mascara, brow gels and especially UV-cured nail polishes and builder gels. It can also appear in transfer-resistant lip products and high-humidity hair styling sprays where a flexible yet strong film is needed.
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays one main role in beauty formulas
Film forming: once the product is applied the polymer dries into a thin continuous layer that locks other ingredients in place, boosts water and sweat resistance, adds gloss and helps makeup or nail color last longer without flaking
Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer
This polymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and mature because it sits on top of the skin rather than sinking in. Those with extremely sensitive or allergy-prone skin should proceed with caution since any film former can occasionally trap heat or sweat and trigger discomfort.
Because the raw materials are synthesized from petrochemical or plant-derived feedstocks without animal inputs the ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Brands that are certified cruelty-free can also use it without conflicting with their status.
The molecule is large and not readily absorbed so it is considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show the product to their doctor before adding it to a routine.
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be worn day or night without raising the chance of sunburn. Since it cures into a flexible film it is also unlikely to interfere with other active ingredients applied underneath as long as they are allowed to dry first.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from the topical use of Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished cosmetic formula.
Skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
Allergic contact dermatitis in people already sensitized to acrylate or urethane chemistry
Eye stinging or watering if wet product accidentally gets into the eyes before it sets
Nail dryness or brittleness after repeated UV gel manicures that require solvent removal
Respiratory irritation for salon professionals inhaling uncured dust or vapors during application or filing
If a negative reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is a large polymer that stays on top of the skin, creates a breathable film and is not oily so it has very little tendency to block pores. Most reports of clogged pores involve heavy waxes or oils, not light film formers like this one.
The ingredient is therefore generally suitable for acne-prone skin, though how a full formula is built around it can still influence breakouts.
Because it must be removed with cleansers or solvents, leaving residue on the skin could contribute to congestion, so thorough cleansing is advised after use.
Summary
Bis-Hema Poly(Diglycol/Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer is mainly valued as a film former. Once a product is applied it dries into a clear flexible layer that locks pigments in place, boosts water and sweat resistance, adds shine and helps makeup or nail color last longer without flaking.
The polymer shows up most often in UV-cured nail gels, long-wear foundations, mascaras and brow products. Outside professional nail circles it is still less common than classic acrylate resins, but its flexibility is gaining fans among formulators who want peel-off or high-performance finishes.
Current safety data classifies the ingredient as low risk for irritation or systemic absorption when used as directed. Still, skin is individual so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this polymer before full application.