What Is Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate?
Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate is a lab-made derivative of the essential amino acid lysine. Chemists attach two long, plant-sourced hexyl dioxodecyl chains and a small methyl group to the lysine backbone, creating a molecule that behaves like a lightweight oil while still being water compatible. This hybrid nature lets it sit comfortably on skin, forming a soft, flexible film that resists wash-off.
The ingredient was introduced in the early 2000s when formulators began looking for gentler alternatives to mineral oil and heavy waxes. Because it can be produced from renewable plant oils and fermented lysine, it quickly gained attention in “green science” cosmetic labs. Manufacturing involves first fermenting corn or sugar to obtain lysine, then reacting it with hexyl dioxodecanoic acid under controlled heat and finally capping the molecule with a methyl ester group. The result is a clear to pale yellow liquid that blends easily with both oils and emulsions.
You will most often spot Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate in leave-on products where a long-lasting, non-greasy protective layer is needed. Common examples include day and night moisturizers, anti-aging serums, sheet and cream masks, tinted moisturizers, facial mists, makeup primers and hand or body lotions. It also appears in some after-sun gels and soothing balms to help reinforce the skin barrier.
Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays a single but important role in skin care formulas.
Skin protecting: When applied, it spreads into an ultra-thin shield that reduces moisture loss, cushions skin against environmental irritants and leaves a silky finish that never feels heavy or occlusive. By reinforcing the surface barrier, it can make dry or sensitive skin feel smoother, softer and more resilient, helping other active ingredients work more effectively.
Who Can Use Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate
This silky emollient works for most skin types. Dry or sensitive complexions benefit from its protective film while normal and combination skins appreciate the light, non-greasy feel. Even oily skin generally tolerates it well because it is less occlusive than many plant oils, though those who clog easily should still watch how their skin responds.
The molecule is made from fermented lysine and plant-derived fatty acids, with no animal by-products used at any stage, so it is considered suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
No data suggest any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate is applied topically. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before introducing new skincare products.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not known to trigger photosensitivity, so it can be worn during the day without raising sun-related concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate differ from person to person. The following are possible but uncommon effects when the ingredient is included at typical cosmetic levels.
- Mild redness or itching on very reactive skin
- Transient stinging on cracked or freshly exfoliated areas
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to lysine derivatives
- Isolated acne-like breakouts in users already prone to congestion
- Eye watering or irritation if the product migrates into the eyes
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate scores a 1 out of 5 for comedogenicity. Its branched structure and relatively small molecular size allow it to form a breathable film that rarely blocks pores. Unlike heavier plant butters or mineral oils, it spreads in a very thin layer and has good affinity for both water and oil phases, which helps it rinse away more easily during cleansing.
Because of this low rating the ingredient is generally suitable for skin that tends to break out, though extremely acne-prone users may still prefer to limit leave-on layers of any emollient.
Formulators often pair it with mattifying powders or lightweight esters to keep oily skin finishes fresh, which can further reduce the risk of congestion.
Summary
Bis-Hexyldioxodecyl Methyl Lysinate is a plant-derived lysine ester that acts as a skin-protecting emollient. It creates a soft, flexible barrier that locks in moisture while feeling featherlight and non-greasy. This makes it a handy swap for heavier occlusives in modern moisturizers, serums, masks and after-sun products.
Although not a headline star like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it is quietly popular with formulators chasing a silky skin feel and eco-friendly sourcing. Consumers may not recognize the name, but they enjoy the smooth finish it provides.
Safety data show a low irritation potential and minimal pore-clogging risk, so most skin types can use it with confidence. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test first to rule out personal sensitivity.