What Is Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer?
Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer is a synthetic film-forming ingredient created by linking dilinoleic acid (a fatty acid typically sourced from plant oils) with ethylenediamine, then “capping” the ends of the chain with hydrogenated tallow amine, a fatty amine derived from rendered animal fat that has been hydrogenated for stability. The result is a high-molecular-weight copolymer that spreads easily and dries to a flexible layer on skin or hair.
Chemists began experimenting with this type of copolymer in the 1990s when the demand grew for lightweight yet resilient films that could lock moisture, improve texture and boost wear time of color cosmetics. By combining naturally occurring fatty acids with a robust diamine backbone, formulators produced a material that delivers the silky glide of oils while forming an invisible breathable shield once the product sets.
Manufacturing involves first reacting dilinoleic acid with ethylenediamine to form a polyamide chain. The chain ends are then treated with hydrogenated tallow amine which “end-caps” the polymer, enhancing water resistance and adhesion. The finished copolymer is purified, dried and milled into a fine powder or supplied as a viscous resin ready for use in personal care labs.
You will most often spot this ingredient in long-wear foundations, smudge-resistant mascaras, liquid lipsticks, sunscreens, hair conditioners, styling creams, sheet masks, peel-off masks, anti-aging serums and daily moisturizers that promise a soft-touch finish.
Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When added to a formula this copolymer performs mainly as a film former, delivering several practical benefits.
As a film former it creates a thin cohesive layer that helps seal in moisture, enhances product spreadability and boosts the longevity of makeup or active ingredients. The film can also provide a smoother surface that visibly softens fine lines, reduces flaking and gives hair a conditioned feel without heaviness.
Who Can Use Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer
This copolymer is generally well tolerated by normal, dry and combination skin because it forms a breathable film that helps curb moisture loss. Those with very oily or congestion-prone skin might find the extra coating feels too occlusive and could prefer lighter film formers. Sensitive skin usually handles it without trouble but anyone with a known sensitivity to tallow-based ingredients should proceed with caution since the material is derived from animal fat.
Because the hydrogenated tallow component comes from rendered animal sources the ingredient is not suitable for vegans or strict vegetarians. Some brands offer plant-derived alternatives yet the INCI above always signals an animal origin.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns, so products containing this copolymer are considered acceptable for pregnant or breastfeeding users. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review their full skincare routine with a qualified healthcare professional.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not classed as photosensitizing. It is also fragrance free, gluten free and compatible with most other cosmetic actives.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses can differ and the following points outline potential, not guaranteed, reactions. When used at the low percentages typical of cosmetics most people experience none of these issues.
- Clogged pores or mild breakouts in very oily or acne-prone skin due to the occlusive nature of the film
- Contact irritation such as redness stinging or itching in those sensitive to fatty amines or tallow derivatives
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases where an immune response develops to the animal-derived portion of the molecule
- Eye irritation if a formula containing the polymer is accidentally rubbed into the eyes before it sets
If any discomfort or reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5. The copolymer contains long-chain fatty portions that can sit on the surface and slow water loss, which may trap sebum and debris in very oily skin. Its high molecular weight keeps most of the polymer on the outermost layer, so it is less likely to penetrate and clog pores than pure oils or butters. For most skin types the risk of breakouts is low, but highly acne-prone users might notice occasional congestion when formulas are heavy or layered.
In short, it is usually fine for acne-prone skin if used in lightweight products, but those who clog easily may prefer to limit it.
The comedogenic impact also depends on the full formula: pairing the polymer with volatile silicones or quick-drying solvents lowers the chance of pore blockage, while pairing it with rich waxes can raise it.
Summary
Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer acts mainly as a film former, creating a flexible breathable layer that locks in moisture, improves spreadability and helps makeup or active ingredients stay put longer. Its fatty acid segments give slip and softness while the polyamide backbone delivers strength so the film does not crack or flake.
The ingredient is a niche choice rather than a mainstream superstar. You will spot it in select long-wear foundations, mascaras and hair products where durability and a smooth finish are must-haves, but it is far from ubiquitous.
Current safety data show a low risk of irritation and no major health flags. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that lists this copolymer near the top of the ingredient panel and discontinue use if sensitivity occurs.