What Is Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer?
Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer is a lab-crafted ingredient created by linking together dilinoleic acid (a fatty acid usually sourced from plant oils) with propanediol, then capping the ends of the chain with octyldodecanol, a silky alcohol derived from natural fats. The result is a large, branched molecule that behaves like a lightweight liquid wax. Chemists developed it in the early 2000s while searching for plant-based alternatives to mineral oil and silicone that could still leave skin feeling smooth and supple. Production starts by dimerizing linoleic acid to form dilinoleic acid, reacting it with propanediol under heat to build the copolymer backbone, then finishing the chain with octyldodecanol to improve spreadability and stability.
Thanks to its velvety texture and high affinity for skin lipids, the copolymer is now used in a wide range of leave-on and rinse-off products. You will spot it in rich face and body moisturizers, barrier-repair balms, overnight masks, creamy foundations, lipsticks and even some hair serums where a non-greasy conditioning feel is needed.
Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker supports formulas in two key ways:
- Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, breathable film that helps smooth rough patches, improves the look of dry or flaky areas and leaves a silky after-feel
- Emollient: Fills in microscopic gaps between skin cells, boosting suppleness, enhancing spreadability of the product and reducing moisture loss for longer-lasting comfort
- Mild pore clogging or breakouts in very oily or acne-prone skin
- Transient surface redness or warmth if skin is already irritated or compromised
- Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis resulting in itching or small rash
- Greasy or heavy feel if applied in thick layers which can lead to discomfort
Who Can Use Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer
This silky liquid wax suits most skin types, especially dry, normal and combination complexions that need extra softness without a greasy feel. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is large and non-reactive, meaning it is less likely to penetrate deeply or sting. Oily or very acne-prone skin may find it a bit heavy if layered with other rich ingredients, so lightweight formulas are preferable in that case.
The raw materials used to make this copolymer come from plant sources, not animals, and no animal-derived processing aids are normally involved. That makes it suitable for vegetarians and vegans, as long as the finished product is certified cruelty free.
There is no evidence that the ingredient poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It stays on the surface of the skin and is not expected to reach the bloodstream. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product label to a health professional before using, just to be safe.
Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance free and stable at a wide range of pH levels, which further reduces the chance of reactivity.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients differ from person to person. The following points list potential side effects that have been reported or are theoretically possible with Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer, but they remain uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
This liquid wax is large and branched so it mostly stays on top of the skin rather than slipping deep into pores. That keeps its clogging potential low, yet its fatty nature means it can still mingle with excess sebum if you are extremely oily, so it does not earn a perfect zero.
Generally fine for acne-prone skin provided the rest of the formula is lightweight and not overloaded with richer oils.
Its stable structure is slow to oxidize, reducing the chance of pore-blocking by-products as a product ages.
Summary
Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer acts as a skin-conditioning emollient that smooths rough texture, fills microscopic gaps between cells and leaves a breathable silky film that locks in moisture. Its plant-derived backbone and octyldodecanol end caps give it excellent spreadability so creams, balms and makeup glide on effortlessly.
Though it is not a household name, formulators increasingly reach for it as a greener swap for mineral oil or silicones in modern moisturizers, lipsticks and tinted bases.
Safety reviews rate it as low risk for irritation or sensitization. Still, give any new product a quick patch test first to be certain your skin stays happy.