What Is Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate?
Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate is a hybrid ingredient that combines natural wax from the candelilla shrub with a lightweight silicone backbone. Chemically, it is a partial ester formed when fatty acids from candelilla wax are joined to a dimethicone chain that has been capped with an average of 12 units of ethylene oxide. This blend of plant-derived wax and modified silicone gives the material a balance of slip, softness and staying power.
Candelilla wax has long been valued for its glossy finish in polishes and lip balms. Silicone chemistry, on the other hand, rose to cosmetic fame in the 1970s for its silky feel and water resistance. Scientists eventually linked the two by creating ester bonds between candelilla fatty acids and pegylated dimethicone, leading to Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate. The process involves purifying candelilla wax, breaking it down into its fatty acids, reacting those acids with a polyethylene glycol-modified dimethicone, then refining the result into a smooth, pourable fluid.
You will most often spot this ingredient in leave-in hair conditioners, anti-frizz serums, styling creams, skin moisturizers, lip balms, long-wear foundations and sunscreens where a lightweight yet lasting film is desired. Its dual nature lets it spread easily like a silicone while delivering the subtle grip and gloss of a natural wax.
Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient earns its place in formulas by improving how products feel and perform
- Hair conditioning – forms a thin, flexible coating that smooths the cuticle, reduces frizz, boosts shine and helps detangle without weighing hair down
- Skin conditioning – leaves a soft, velvety finish, locks in moisture and enhances spreadability so creams and lotions glide on evenly
Who Can Use Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate
Thanks to its lightweight texture and low likelihood of clogging pores, Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because silicones and plant wax esters are chemically inert and non-sensitizing. Those with very acne-prone skin may prefer lighter formulas, but the ingredient itself has a low comedogenic profile.
The wax is obtained from the candelilla shrub so there are no animal-derived components, making it appropriate for vegetarians and vegans.
No research indicates that topical use poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women. The molecules are too large to penetrate deeply into living tissue, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a qualified healthcare provider.
Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not react with UV light, so it will not increase sunburn risk. It can be paired with sunscreens or worn under makeup without stability concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible outcomes but are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in very sensitive individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis if the user is specifically allergic to candelilla wax components
- Transient eye stinging or watering if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Build-up or dullness on hair after repeated use without proper cleansing
- Rare acne flare-ups in users prone to follicular occlusion when applied in heavy leave-on layers
If any discomfort, rash or other adverse reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate earns a low score because its silicone backbone creates large, slippery molecules that sit on the surface rather than lodging inside pores. The candelilla wax esters add gloss but are present in a modified, partially water-soluble form that further lessens pore-blocking potential. As long as the finished formula is not overloaded with heavy oils, the ingredient itself poses minimal risk of congestion.
Suitable for most people who are prone to acne or breakouts, though individual tolerance can vary.
Keep in mind that overall product composition, cleansing habits and layering with other occlusive ingredients can influence whether any build-up occurs over time.
Summary
Bis-Peg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate acts as a dual hair and skin conditioner. Its silicone side spreads effortlessly to coat strands and skin with a light, silky film while the candelilla-derived portion adds grip, moisture retention and a soft sheen. The result is smoother hair with less frizz and creams or lotions that feel velvety instead of greasy.
Although not as famous as dimethicone or straight plant waxes, this hybrid is gaining traction in leave-ins, styling serums, long-wear makeup and vegan lip care where formulators want slip plus staying power.
Current safety data show very low irritation and allergy rates. It is considered safe for regular topical use. As with any new product, a quick patch test is a smart precaution to rule out personal sensitivities.