What Is Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a plant-derived lipid made by linking castor oil–based ricinoleic acid with dilinoleic acid that comes from natural vegetable oils such as soybean or sunflower. The result is a large, flexible molecule rich in fatty chains that feels cushiony and non-greasy on skin. It first appeared in cosmetic labs in the early 2000s when formulators looked for alternatives to petroleum-based binders that could deliver a softer feel. Production starts with the transesterification of castor oil to isolate polyricinoleic acid. This acid is then dimerized and reacted with dilinoleic acid in the presence of a catalyst to form an ester network that stays stable over a wide temperature range. Because of its smooth texture and strong film-forming ability it shows up in creamy lipsticks, balms, pressed powders, mascaras, high-gloss hair serums, moisturizing masks and long-wear foundations where it helps hold pigments together and keeps the formula flexible.
Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how this ingredient supports a formula and what that means for you:
- Binding: It glues pigments and powders to one another so a lipstick or eyeshadow stays intact, resists crumbling and applies evenly.
- Plasticiser: It adds softness and flexibility which prevents a product from becoming brittle. This keeps a pressed powder from cracking and lets a film of mascara bend with your lashes instead of flaking.
Who Can Use Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily skin, because it spreads in a thin non-greasy layer rather than forming a heavy occlusive coat. Its low comedogenic tendency means acne-prone users usually do fine, although extremely oil-sensitive individuals might prefer lighter textures.
Because both starting materials come from plant oils and no animal derivatives are involved in the manufacturing process, Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No data link this ingredient to hormonal activity or systemic absorption, so it is considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to a qualified physician for personalized guidance.
It does not increase photosensitivity, so daytime use does not require extra sun precautions beyond standard SPF.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate differ among individuals. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in those who are sensitive to fatty acid esters
- Contact dermatitis in people with castor oil allergies
- Transient eye stinging if mascara or eyeliner containing the ingredient migrates into the eye
- Occlusive-related bumps or whiteheads in users extremely prone to clogged pores
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (very low likelihood of clogging pores)
Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a large ester molecule that spreads in a thin flexible film rather than sinking deeply into pores. Its fatty chains are branched and bulky so they do not pack tightly inside a follicle, which keeps the clogging risk low. Lab studies on similar castor-based esters report minimal increases in comedone formation even at higher use levels. The rating could inch upward if the ingredient is used at very high percentages in a thick balm or if layered with other rich oils, but in most leave-on or color formulas the risk stays low.
Suitable for most acne-prone users, though extremely oil-sensitive skin may still prefer lighter textures.
Formulation factors like total oil load, wax content and how often the product is reapplied can influence the practical comedogenicity, so the finished product may feel heavier or lighter than the raw rating suggests.
Summary
Bis-Polyricinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate works mainly as a binder and plasticiser. It holds powders and pigments together so makeup stays intact then keeps the final film soft and flexible so products resist cracking and flaking. The ingredient is still a niche pick compared with classic mineral oils and synthetic esters but its plant origin and smooth feel are making it more common in modern clean beauty lines.
Safety data show a low irritation profile, no known hormonal activity and minimal pore-clogging potential which makes it suitable for most skin types including sensitive and acne-prone. As with any new cosmetic ingredient you should patch test a small area first to be sure your skin agrees with it.