What Is Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide?
Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide is a lab-made derivative of vitamin A that is paired with hydroxysuccinimide, a helper molecule that boosts stability and skin uptake. The full chemical name, Retinamide, N,N’-[1,4-butanediylbis(imino-3,1-propanediyl)]bis-, compd. with 1-hydroxy-2,5-pyrrolidinedione, reflects how two vitamin A-like units are linked to a flexible carbon chain, then combined with two hydroxysuccinimide units. By binding retinoid pieces in this way chemists lower irritation risks while keeping the skin-renewing power of traditional retinol.
The ingredient was first explored in the early 2010s when brands searched for gentler retinoid options that would not break down quickly in air or light. Researchers found that adding hydroxysuccinimide could shield the active retinoid and help carry it into the upper layers of skin. After safety tests confirmed low irritation and good shelf life, it began appearing in premium skincare lines focused on oil control and age defense.
Production starts with retinoic acid analogs that are reacted with a diamine linker to form the double retinoyl backbone. This intermediate is then coupled with hydroxysuccinimide through a simple condensation step. The resulting powder is purified, dried, and blended into creams, gels, or serums at low percentages to keep formulas smooth and stable.
You will most often find Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide in lightweight facial serums, anti-aging night creams, oil-control moisturizers, leave-on masks, and spot treatments aimed at shiny or breakout-prone skin. Its balanced profile lets formulators target both excess sebum and early signs of aging in one step.
Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings a two-pronged boost to modern skincare formulas:
- Anti-Sebum: Helps lower the look of excess oil by signaling skin to produce less sebum. Over time pores appear tighter and makeup lasts longer without shine.
- Antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals created by sunlight and pollution which can lead to dullness and fine lines. Supporting antioxidant activity keeps skin looking bright and fresh.
Who Can Use Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide
This retinoid blend suits oily, combination and normal skin thanks to its oil balancing action and mild delivery system. People dealing with clogged pores or early fine lines often see the most benefit. Dry or highly reactive skin can still use it if the formula is buffered with soothing ingredients, though starting slowly is wise.
The molecule is fully synthetic with no animal by-products so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. Final cruelty status depends on the finished brand’s testing policy.
Because it is a vitamin A derivative, many doctors advise pregnant or breastfeeding women to avoid retinoids or at least get personalized guidance. This is not medical advice; if you are expecting or nursing, show the product to your healthcare provider before use.
Like other retinoids, it can make skin a bit more sensitive to sunlight. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is recommended when using it, even though studies show lower photosensitivity than classic retinol.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used as directed.
- Temporary redness or warmth, especially in the first weeks
- Mild flaking or peeling as skin turnover speeds up
- Feeling of dryness or tightness
- Stinging when applied to compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Initial breakout purge that settles within a few weeks
- Greater sensitivity to UV light
- Rare allergic rash or swelling
If you develop persistent or severe irritation stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide is a lightweight, non-oily molecule that sits on skin briefly before absorbing, so it has little tendency to clog pores. Its anti-sebum action can even reduce the chance of new blockages forming over time. Because it is delivered in low percentages and often paired with gel or serum bases, the overall formula usually stays breathable.
That means the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that any finished product can still feel heavier or lighter depending on added oils, waxes or silicones, so check the full ingredient list if you are extremely sensitive.
Summary
Bis-Retinoyl Gerotine Bis-Hydroxysuccinimide provides two key benefits: it reins in excess oil production and supplies antioxidant support. It does this by combining a gentle retinoid backbone that signals sebaceous glands to dial back sebum with hydroxysuccinimide that stabilises the molecule and sweeps up free radicals.
The compound is still a niche player found mostly in higher-end or dermatologist-led lines rather than on every drugstore shelf, yet its balanced performance is drawing more formulators each year.
Current data shows a strong safety profile with low irritation compared to classic retinol. Even so, skin is personal, so it is smart to run a small patch test when you try any new product that contains it.