What Is Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate?
Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is a skin-conditioning ingredient made by joining lauric acid, a fatty acid from coconut or palm kernel oil, with glutamic acid, an amino acid that occurs naturally in the body. This lauroyl glutamate is then linked to long-chain alcohols derived from plant oils, specifically hexyldecyl and octyldodecyl alcohols, to create a rich, oil-like molecule. The result is a lightweight, silky emollient that melts on contact with skin and leaves behind a soft, cushioned feel.
The ingredient was developed in the early 2000s when formulators looked for plant based alternatives to heavy mineral oils and silicones. By tweaking the glutamate backbone with different fatty acids and alcohols, chemists discovered they could fine-tune texture while keeping the ingredient biodegradable and gentle. Production involves first reacting lauric acid with glutamic acid to form lauroyl glutamate, purifying it, then esterifying it with the branched hexyldecyl and octyldodecyl alcohols under controlled heat and pressure. The finished material is a clear to pale yellow liquid that blends easily with oils and waxes.
You’ll spot Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate in moisturizers, day and night creams, lightweight lotions, lip balms, foundations, sunscreens, hair conditioners and leave-on masks where a non-greasy, velvety afterfeel is desired.
Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient serves as an emollient, meaning it fills in the tiny gaps between skin cells to smooth roughness, soften the surface and lock in water. Because its structure mimics the lipids naturally found in the skin barrier, it absorbs quickly without leaving a heavy film, helping creams glide on effortlessly and giving makeup a silky slip. Over time it can reduce the look of dry patches and improve overall comfort, making products feel more luxurious while supporting long-lasting moisture.
Who Can Use Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate
This silky emollient suits nearly every skin type. Dry and mature skin benefits from its ability to seal in moisture while oily and combination skin appreciate that it absorbs quickly without a greasy afterfeel. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it is free of common irritants like fragrance or essential oils. The only group that may need caution is people with very acne-prone skin using rich formulas packed with many oils, as an over-occlusive blend could trigger breakouts.
Because the ingredient is made from plant-derived fatty acids and amino acids, it is usually considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Still, strict vegans should look for brands that clearly state no animal testing or animal by-products were used anywhere in the supply chain.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The molecule is large, stays on the surface of skin and is not known to penetrate into the bloodstream. This is not medical advice, so anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss all personal care products with a qualified healthcare professional before use to be safe.
Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it will not raise the risk of sunburn or pigment spots. It is also fragrance free, gluten free and suitable for use on the body, face and even around the eyes when formulated correctly.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, but most users will not experience these when the ingredient is used at typical levels in well-formulated products.
- Mild redness or itching
- Transient stinging on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for those sensitive to fatty acid derivatives
- Clogged pores or small breakouts if applied in an overly rich product on acne-prone skin
If any unwanted reaction occurs, discontinue use and seek guidance from a medical professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
1 / 5
This low score reflects its large, branched structure that lies on the surface and spreads thinly instead of building up inside pores. It delivers slip without forming a heavy, airtight film, so it is unlikely to block follicles when used at typical levels.
Most acne prone users tolerate it well, though extremely reactive skin should still watch how the full formula behaves.
Remember the pore clogging potential of any product depends on the entire ingredient mix, so pairing this emollient with thick waxes or excessive oils can raise the overall risk.
Summary
Bis(Hexyldecyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is a plant derived emollient that smooths, softens and helps seal in moisture by mimicking natural skin lipids. Its branched tails create a light, velvety glide that improves the feel of creams makeup and hair conditioners while supporting a comfortable barrier.
Although not yet a superstar name on ingredient lists, its eco friendly profile and pleasant texture have made it increasingly popular with formulators looking to replace mineral oil and silicones.
Current research rates it as low risk, non sensitizing and non photo reactive. Even so skin is personal, so patch testing a new product that contains this ingredient is the smartest way to confirm compatibility.