Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide?

Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide is a lab-crafted molecule made by joining two long plant-derived cetyl (16-carbon) chains to a malonamide core that also carries two hydroxyethyl groups. The fatty cetyl arms give it a soft, velvety feel while the hydroxy parts let it mix well with water. Chemists first explored the compound in the early 2000s when they were looking for milder alternatives to traditional conditioning agents. Today it is produced through a controlled reaction where malonic acid is turned into malonamide, then reacted with cetyl amine and finally capped with ethylene oxide to add the hydroxyethyl ends. The result is a wax-like solid that melts easily into creams and lotions.

Its balanced water-loving and oil-loving segments make it useful in many topical formulas. You will most often spot it in rinse-off and leave-in hair conditioners, moisturizing creams, night masks, anti-aging serums, after-sun balms and soothing body butters where it helps boost softness and protect skin or hair from everyday stress.

Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators choose this ingredient because it delivers several care-boosting actions in a single dose

  • Hair conditioning: coats strands with a light, flexible film that smooths cuticles reduces static and makes hair easier to comb
  • Skin conditioning: adds a silky finish helps skin hold onto moisture and leaves a cushioned feel without greasiness
  • Skin protecting: forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from wind cold and minor irritants while reducing water loss

Who Can Use Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide

This multifunctional conditioner is generally suitable for normal, dry and sensitive skin types thanks to its gentle nature and ability to reinforce the skin barrier. People with very oily or acne prone skin may find rich, fatty ingredients like this one feel a bit heavy if used in high amounts, so lighter formulas or rinse-off products are preferable in that case.

Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide is made from plant-derived cetyl chains and laboratory-synthesized components, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles without animal-based inputs or by-products.

Current safety data show no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically and as directed. Because every situation is unique this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare or haircare product past a qualified health professional before routine use.

The molecule does not absorb UV light or trigger sun sensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free, gluten-free and compatible with most active ingredients commonly found in cosmetics.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide can differ. The points below list potential side effects, though they remain uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness, itching or a stinging sensation
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to amide or fatty alcohol derivatives
  • Folliculitis or pore clogging in those already prone to breakouts when the ingredient is used in rich leave-on products
  • Temporary eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Greasy or weighed-down feel on very fine hair when applied in excess

If any discomfort or reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for advice.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5

Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide carries two long fatty chains that can sit on the skin surface and potentially trap oil, yet its hydroxyethyl groups give it good water affinity so it melts into most formulas rather than lingering as a thick wax. In rinse-off products the chance of pore blockage is very low. In rich leave-on creams used on already oily areas it might contribute to congestion, though it is still far less occlusive than heavy plant butters.

Generally considered fine for acne-prone users in light or rinse-off formulas but those highly susceptible to breakouts may prefer lower-fat alternatives for daily leave-on use.

Because the ingredient is often used at modest levels and has a balanced oil-to-water profile, it rarely appears on do-not-use lists for clogged pores.

Summary

Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide works as a three-in-one helper: it conditions hair by smoothing cuticles, conditions skin by boosting softness and moisture retention, and protects by forming a light breathable film that limits water loss. The dual fatty and water-loving sections of the molecule let it anchor onto keratin while still blending well with watery phases, which is why it leaves a silky feel without a waxy residue.

The ingredient is something of a hidden gem rather than a household name; formulators appreciate its versatility but it has not reached the mainstream fame of silicones or plant oils, so you will mostly spot it in mid to high-end niche products.

Current research and market experience show it to be safe for topical use with low irritation risk, vegan friendly and photostable. As with any new skincare or haircare product, do a quick patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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