Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters?

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters comes from the seeds of the borage plant, also known as starflower. The seeds are naturally rich in gamma linolenic acid, a fatty acid that helps keep skin comfortable and supple. To create this cosmetic ingredient, manufacturers start with pure borage seed oil and combine it with PEG-8, a small water-loving molecule. Through a controlled process called transesterification, the oil and PEG-8 link together, forming a new material that mixes easily with both water and oil. This change makes the nourishing properties of borage oil easier to add to modern skin-care formulas.

The beauty industry began exploring borage oil in the 1970s for its soothing benefits. Chemists later discovered that attaching PEG-8 to the oil helped it spread smoothly, rinse cleanly and blend into a wider range of products. Today Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters appears in light facial moisturizers, balancing cleansers, refreshing face masks, after-sun gels, baby lotions and many anti-aging serums where a gentle plant-based touch is desired.

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multi-tasking ingredient offers several helpful roles in skin-care formulas:

  • Skin conditioning: Supplies fatty acids that soften rough patches and leave skin feeling calm and nourished
  • Emollient: Creates a thin protective layer that reduces moisture loss so skin stays smooth and flexible
  • Cleansing: Helps lift away dirt and excess oil while respecting the skin barrier making cleansers less drying
  • Emulsifying: Keeps water and oil parts of a formula evenly mixed which improves texture stability and ease of use

Who Can Use Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters is generally suitable for all skin types, particularly dry, sensitive and mature skin that crave extra comfort. Its lightweight feel and low comedogenic rating mean oily or blemish-prone complexions can usually enjoy it without a greasy after-feel. People with a known allergy to borage, PEGs or botanical oils should steer clear to avoid irritation.

The ingredient is plant-derived and contains no animal by-products so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. Its production relies on borage seed oil and a lab-made PEG, both of which are free from animal sources.

Current data show no specific concerns for topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss any skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider before use, just to be safe.

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no special need for extra sun precautions beyond everyday sunscreen habits. It also plays nicely with common actives such as vitamin C, niacinamide and gentle exfoliating acids, making it easy to slot into most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and applied.

  • Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive or broken skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to borage, PEGs or botanical oils
  • Transient clogged pores or small breakouts if used in a very rich formula on acne-prone skin
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally enters the eyes
  • Off odor or skin irritation if the oil portion oxidizes in an old or poorly stored product

If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters contains lightweight fatty acids from borage oil but the PEG-8 portion increases solubility, so it rinses cleanly and does not sit heavily on the skin. Most studies and formulator reports place PEG-modified plant oils at the low end of the comedogenic scale because the molecule is partly water soluble and less likely to block pores compared with untreated oils. Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases, especially when used in well-balanced formulas.

As with any ingredient the final pore-clogging potential also depends on the overall product recipe and how often it is applied.

Summary

Borage Seed Oil Peg-8 Esters conditions skin, acts as an emollient, provides mild cleansing power and stabilizes oil-and-water mixtures. It does this by combining the soothing gamma linolenic acid profile of borage seed oil with a water-loving PEG-8 chain that improves spreadability and rinse-off.

The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity; not as common as jojoba or coconut derivatives yet favored in gentle cleansers and lightweight moisturizers that target sensitive or mature skin.

Current data show it to be safe for topical use with a very low irritation and comedogenic risk. As with any new skincare addition perform a quick patch test first to keep your routine trouble-free.

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