Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester?

Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester is a skin-loving ingredient made from the oil that comes from borage seeds. The oil is rich in fatty acids, especially gamma-linolenic acid, which are turned into ethyl esters during processing. This small chemical change helps the oil blend smoothly into modern cosmetic formulas and keeps it from feeling greasy on the skin.

Borage has been valued for centuries as an herbal aid for dry or irritated skin. When scientists looked closer at its seed oil in the late 20th century they saw the benefit of its fatty acid profile. Converting those fatty acids into ethyl esters made the material lighter, more stable and easier to formulate, so cosmetic chemists started adding it to moisturizers and specialty treatments.

The manufacturing process starts with cold-pressing borage seeds to obtain the raw oil. The oil is purified then reacted with food-grade ethanol in a controlled environment. This step, called esterification, swaps the natural glycerol backbone of the fatty acids for an ethyl group. After gentle purification the result is a clear to pale-yellow liquid that mixes well with other oils and emulsifiers.

You will usually spot Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester in face and body moisturizers, lightweight facial oils, anti-aging creams, overnight masks, soothing after-sun lotions and lip care products. Its pleasant slip and fast absorbency also make it popular in serums and blended oil treatments marketed for sensitive or redness-prone skin.

Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized first and foremost for how it conditions the skin, helping products feel comforting while supporting a smooth, healthy-looking surface.

As a skin conditioning agent Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester supplies essential fatty acids that reinforce the skin’s natural barrier. It softens rough patches, reduces the tight feeling linked with dryness and leaves a silky after-feel that does not trap heat or clog pores. Its lightweight nature lets formulators boost nourishment in both rich creams and quick-absorbing lotions without making them heavy, so users benefit from lasting moisture and a refreshed finish.

Who Can Use Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester

Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from its fatty acids that reinforce the moisture barrier while normal and combination skin appreciate its lightweight feel. Sensitive skin typically tolerates it because it lacks common irritants and absorbs quickly without leaving residue. Oily or acne-prone users often find it agreeable since the esterified form is lighter than the original oil and has a very low likelihood of clogging pores.

The ingredient is 100 percent plant derived so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal parts or by-products are used at any point in the extraction or esterification process.

No specific warnings exist for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Current safety reviews find no hormonal activity or systemic concerns from normal cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice so anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a qualified health professional before adding new skincare products.

Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not increase the skin’s vulnerability to sunburn. Normal daytime sun protection practices remain sufficient.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester vary between individuals. The points below outline possible side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in those with a specific seed oil allergy
  • Rare breakouts if applied in excessive amounts on highly congested skin
  • Potential interaction with potent exfoliating acids or prescription treatments that may already compromise the skin barrier

If any irritation or other unwanted reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5. Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester is a lightweight ester with a small molecular size that sinks in quickly rather than sitting on the skin surface, so it is unlikely to block pores. It contains beneficial fatty acids but the ethyl ester form makes it far less occlusive than the raw oil.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.

As with any ingredient, overall pore-clogging risk depends on the finished formula. A product packed with heavy butters or waxes could still cause congestion even if this ester itself is low risk.

Summary

Borago Officinalis Ethyl Ester conditions skin by delivering gamma-linolenic acid and other essential fatty acids in a form that feels silky and absorbs fast. It reinforces the moisture barrier, smooths roughness and leaves a light non-greasy finish which makes it easy to slot into lotions, creams and serums.

While not as famous as jojoba or argan oil, it has a steady presence in niche moisturizers and soothing products aimed at sensitive or mature skin. Formulators appreciate its stability and pleasant slip so its use is growing in modern lightweight textures.

Current research and cosmetic safety assessments rate it as very low risk when used at normal concentrations. Rare allergies can occur but there are no systemic concerns. As with any new skincare product, do a quick patch test before full-face use to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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