Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract?

Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract comes from grapes, specifically the fruit of the common wine grape Vitis vinifera. The grapes are allowed to ferment under the guidance of a naturally occurring microorganism called Botrytis cinerea. During fermentation the microbe breaks down grape sugars and releases a mix of organic acids, amino acids, and antioxidant compounds that are later captured in the final extract. Although modern labs refine and standardize the process, the idea of using “noble rot” grapes has roots in centuries-old winemaking traditions where Botrytis was prized for developing complex flavors. As cosmetic chemists searched for gentle plant based ingredients with antioxidant and skin softening potential they began experimenting with these fermented grape extracts, eventually introducing them into skin care in the early 2000s. Production starts with carefully selected ripe grapes that are inoculated or allowed to be colonized by Botrytis, fermented under controlled temperature, then filtered and purified to remove sugars and microbial residue. The resulting liquid concentrate is stabilized and can be blended into water based formulas. You will most often spot it in moisturizers, anti-aging serums, hydrating face masks, brightening essences and occasionally in soothing after-sun gels.

Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued mainly for its skin conditioning ability. By supplying lightweight humectants and natural antioxidants it helps skin hold onto moisture, feel smoother and look more refreshed. Formulators rely on it to soften rough patches, improve the spreadability of creams and support an overall healthy complexion without adding heavy oils or occlusives.

Who Can Use Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract

This gentle water based extract suits most skin types including normal, dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it delivers light hydration without clogging pores or leaving a greasy film. The only clear exception would be anyone with a known allergy to grapes, wine or fermentation by-products, as exposure could trigger irritation or hives.

The ingredient is fully plant derived and the fermentation step relies on a naturally occurring fungus rather than animal inputs, so products using it are generally considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Always check the full ingredient list because a finished formula could still contain animal sourced thickeners or fragrance.

No specific warnings exist for use while pregnant or breastfeeding. The extract is not absorbed deeply and has no documented hormone disrupting action. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a physician to be on the safe side.

Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract is not known to cause photosensitivity and can be worn during the day under sunscreen. It also plays well alongside common actives such as vitamin C, niacinamide and gentle exfoliating acids.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects yet they remain unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild stinging or tingling, especially on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Localized redness or itching linked to sensitivity to grape proteins or fermentation residues
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals with pre-existing grape, wine or mold allergies
  • Breakouts in extremely acne-prone skin if the formula also contains comedogenic co-ingredients

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product immediately and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

This extract is water based and contains mostly small humectant molecules, antioxidants and trace minerals rather than heavy oils or waxes that can block pores. Because it lacks fatty acids and other clogging agents it is considered non-comedogenic. That makes it generally safe for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Keep in mind that a finished product might also include emollients, silicones or fragrances that do carry a higher comedogenic risk. Always judge the full ingredient list, not just the presence of Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract.

Summary

Botrytis Cinerea/Grape Fruit Ferment Extract is mainly used as a skin conditioning agent, adding light hydration, smoothing texture and supplying a mild antioxidant boost. The natural sugars and amino acids pull water into the outer skin layers while the grape-derived polyphenols help fend off free radicals, leaving skin softer and more refreshed.

It is a bit of a niche ingredient, seen more often in clean beauty lines and a handful of K-beauty formulas than in mainstream drugstore products, yet its gentle profile has earned it a loyal following among those who prefer plant based actives.

Overall safety is high with very few reports of irritation outside of true grape allergies. As with any new skincare item it is wise to patch test on a small area first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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