Butyloctyl Behenate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Butyloctyl Behenate?

Butyloctyl Behenate is a waxy ingredient made by linking behenic acid, a long chain fatty acid found in oils like rapeseed and peanut, with butyloctanol, an alcohol that helps give a smooth feel. Chemists join the two parts in a simple esterification process where heat and a food-grade catalyst encourage them to bond and release water, leaving a stable oil-like substance.

The cosmetic world began turning to this ester in the early 2010s when brands were looking for plant-derived replacements for heavier mineral oils and silicones. Its light touch and silky glide quickly made it a favorite among formulators who needed a soft finish without a greasy after-feel.

Today you will spot Butyloctyl Behenate in a wide range of products. It shows up in lipsticks and balms for slip and shine, in liquid foundations to help pigments spread evenly, in rich face creams and body butters for a cushiony texture, and in sunscreens where it improves water resistance while keeping the formula elegant. It can also be found in hair conditioners and styling creams for added smoothness.

Butyloctyl Behenate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for the way it transforms the feel of a product on skin or hair.

As an emollient it fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface softening rough patches and creating a smooth, flexible film that locks in moisture. This leads to immediate softness, helps reduce the look of flakiness and makes makeup glide on evenly without patchiness. Because it is light and non-sticky it delivers these benefits without weighing skin down which is why it is popular in both rich creams and fast-absorbing lotions.

Who Can Use Butyloctyl Behenate

Because it is a lightweight emollient, Butyloctyl Behenate generally suits most skin types including normal, dry, combination and even oily skin that dislikes heavy oils. Those with very acne-prone skin could still prefer to monitor how their skin responds, since any fatty ester has the remote chance of feeling too rich for some pores.

The ingredient is plant derived, so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. It is synthesized from vegetable fatty acids and a plant sourced alcohol, with no animal by-products involved in its production.

No data suggest that topical use poses problems for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should share their full routine with a doctor before use to be extra safe.

Butyloctyl Behenate is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no known conflicts with common actives like retinol or vitamin C.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Butyloctyl Behenate differ from person to person. The points below cover possible side effects, yet most users will not notice any issues when the ingredient is used correctly in a well formulated product.

  • Mild redness or irritation – rare and usually linked to an individual sensitivity to fatty esters
  • Contact allergy – very uncommon but may appear as itching or small bumps if someone is allergic to behenic acid derivatives
  • Breakouts on very oily skin – possible if pores easily clog although the ingredient itself has a low clogging tendency
  • Eye stinging – may occur if the product accidentally gets into the eyes, more likely with makeup removers or sunscreens

If any irritation or other unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. Butyloctyl Behenate is a large branched ester that sits lightly on skin and does not readily penetrate or block pores, which keeps its clogging potential low. Its molecular structure is less occlusive than straight chain oils so it rarely traps dead cells or sebum.

Because of this low score it is generally fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, though very oily skin types might still prefer to watch how their skin responds in rich formulas.

Formulation level also matters: products that combine high amounts of heavy butters or waxes with Butyloctyl Behenate could feel richer and may raise clogging risk compared with lightweight lotions that use it sparingly.

Summary

Butyloctyl Behenate is a plant derived emollient that smooths, softens and adds a silky glide. It fills in tiny surface gaps to lock in moisture and improve the spread of pigments, leaving skin or hair feeling conditioned without a greasy film.

Its elegant texture has won over many formulators in lipsticks, sunscreens, creams and hair products, yet most shoppers still do not know its name because it usually appears behind the scenes boosting feel rather than acting as a headline active.

Safety data and long-term use show it is very well tolerated with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. Even so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains it so you can be sure it suits your own skin.

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