What Is Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide?
Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide is a lab-made derivative of the amino acid phenylalanine that has been linked to a short chain fatty acid called butyric acid. Chemists describe it as Benzenepropanamide, α-[(1-oxobutyl)amino]-, (S)- but in cosmetics it is simply prized as a skin conditioning agent. The ingredient was first explored in the early 2000s when researchers looked for small peptides and amino-acid-based compounds that could soften skin without the heaviness of oils. It is produced through a step-wise reaction that bonds a purified form of phenylalanine to a butyric acid fragment, followed by careful purification to remove any leftover solvents. This results in a fine, white powder that dissolves well in water-based skincare bases. You will most often see Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide in leave-on products such as anti-aging serums, light moisturizers, sheet masks and specialty eye creams, where it helps give a smooth, supple feel without clogging pores.
Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient acts as a skin conditioning agent, meaning it helps keep the outer layer of skin soft, hydrated and flexible. By improving the way water binds to the skin surface it promotes a smoother texture, supports a healthy skin barrier and can enhance the overall sensory feel of a product, making it glide on more evenly and leave a soft finish.
Who Can Use Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide
This ingredient is generally suitable for normal, dry, oily and combination skin because it is lightweight and non greasy. Sensitive skin often tolerates it well since it contains no fragrance or known harsh solvents, though anyone with a history of reactions to amino acid derivatives should proceed with care.
Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide is produced entirely through synthetic processes that do not rely on animal sourced materials so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Checking a brand’s overall cruelty free status is still recommended.
Current data show no evidence that it disrupts hormones or penetrates deeply, so it is usually viewed as low risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and those who are pregnant or nursing should discuss any skincare product with their doctor for individual reassurance.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It can be used both morning and night, although daily sunscreen remains a smart habit.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide vary between individuals. The following points list potential side effects, though the typical user is unlikely to encounter them when using a well-formulated product.
- Temporary redness or mild stinging on very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in people allergic to phenylalanine derivatives
- Eye irritation if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
- A brief tacky feel on very oily skin until the product absorbs
Should any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide is water soluble and lightweight so it does not linger in pores or create the kind of oily film that can trap dead cells and trigger blemishes. Most lab and in-use data show no tendency to increase comedones even in combination skin. Its primary job is to bind water to the skin surface rather than coat it with lipids, which keeps the risk of pore blockage very low.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone users.
Because formulation matters, pairing this ingredient with heavy oils or waxes could still raise overall comedogenicity, so look at the full ingredient list.
Summary
Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide is a lab crafted amino acid derivative that conditions skin by attracting and holding water at the surface, leaving it soft, smooth and supple. It achieves this without adding grease or interfering with the skin barrier, making it a handy tool for formulators who want a silky finish in serums, lotions and eye creams.
The ingredient is still something of a niche player compared with buzzier hydrators like hyaluronic acid, yet brands that use it value its light texture and skin friendly profile. As awareness grows you may see it pop up more often in modern lightweight moisturizers.
Current safety reviews rate it low risk for irritation, sensitivity or hormone disruption, and it carries a very low comedogenic rating. Even so every skin is unique so patch testing any new product that features Butyroyl Phenylalaninamide is a smart way to confirm personal compatibility.