What Is Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate?
Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate is a plant derived ester made by joining citric acid with butyric acid and hexyl alcohol. The result is an oily liquid that mixes well with other oils and waxes used in personal care. It belongs to the citrate family of ingredients that have been used for years to soften plastics and improve texture in everyday items like food wraps and nail polish. Cosmetic chemists later found that the same softening trait could make creams feel silkier on the skin.
Manufacturers produce it through a simple esterification process. Citric acid and butyric acid are first reacted to create a butyroyl citrate. Hexyl alcohol is then added under heat and a food grade catalyst until the final trihexyl ester forms. After purification the clear to pale yellow fluid is ready for use.
You will most often see Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate in lipsticks, pressed powders, sunscreens, moisturizing lotions, anti aging serums and various face masks. In these formulas it helps spread pigment evenly, keeps products flexible so they do not crack and leaves skin feeling conditioned without a greasy film.
Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings two key jobs to a cosmetic formula
- Plasticiser: It boosts flexibility in solid or semi solid products like lipsticks and pressed powders so they glide on smoothly, resist breaking and stay comfortable on the skin
- Emollient: It fills in tiny surface gaps on the skin forming a light conditioning layer that softens rough patches and gives products a silky slip during application
Who Can Use Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate
This silky ester works for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily because it is lightweight and non-sticky. Those with very acne prone or extremely sensitive skin can usually tolerate it although they may prefer lighter textures if their routine already feels heavy. There is no known reason for people with eczema or rosacea to avoid it unless they react to the finished product’s other ingredients.
Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate is made from plant based acids and alcohols so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the rest of the formula follows the same cruelty free standard.
Current safety data show no issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in rinse off or leave on cosmetics at normal levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new products just to be safe.
The molecule is not known to cause photosensitivity so daytime use does not require extra sun precautions beyond a regular broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate differ from person to person. The points below cover potential issues yet most people will not notice any problems when the ingredient is used at the amounts found in finished cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness itching or stinging in very sensitive individuals
- Contact allergy presenting as small bumps or rash in users already allergic to citrate esters
- Temporary clogged pores or surface shine if applied in heavy layers on extremely oily skin
- Eye irritation if the raw ingredient is accidentally rubbed into the eyes before it is diluted in a formula
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate is a lightweight ester that spreads thinly and evaporates slowly rather than pooling inside pores. It is used at low levels and shares chemistry with other citrate esters shown to be non-comedogenic in tests, so the chance of blocked pores is minimal. A score of 1 allows for the small possibility that very heavy application could trap debris on extremely oily skin.
Generally considered suitable for skin prone to acne or breakouts.
Real-world feedback has not linked this ester to increased blackheads or whiteheads, though factors like hot climates, thick makeup layers and pairing with richer oils can influence individual results.
Summary
Butyroyl Trihexyl Citrate serves two main roles: it plasticises solid and semi solid formulas so they stay flexible and glide on, and it acts as a soft emollient that smooths skin by filling tiny surface gaps. Its small size and balanced polarity let it slip between waxes and pigments without leaving a greasy film.
While not a headline ingredient, it is a behind-the-scenes favourite in lipsticks, sunscreens and pressed powders, and its plant origin makes it attractive to clean beauty brands looking for silicone substitutes.
Safety reviews rate it low for irritation, sensitisation and comedogenicity at typical cosmetic levels. Still, doing a quick patch test when trying a new product is a sensible habit for every skin type.