C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether?

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether is a plant-derived ingredient created when a dimer of linoleyl alcohol, itself obtained from oils rich in linoleic acid like sunflower or safflower, reacts with C12-14 olefin oxides. The result is a lightweight, silky-feeling ether that behaves much like the lipids found naturally in skin. First explored by cosmetic chemists in the early 2000s, it gained popularity as brands searched for renewable alternatives to mineral oil and silicone. Production involves dimerizing linoleyl alcohol to build a longer, more flexible backbone, then attaching short hydroxyalkyl chains through a controlled reaction with olefin oxides. The finished material is purified into a clear, low-odor liquid ready for formulation. You will most often spot it in face and body moisturizers, overnight masks, soothing lotions, anti-aging serums and nourishing lip treatments where lasting softness and a comfortable after-feel are key.

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking lipid brings two main advantages to a formula

  • Skin conditioning: its structure mimics skin’s own fatty acids so it blends into the surface layers, reinforcing the moisture barrier, improving flexibility and leaving skin feeling calm and supple
  • Emollient: it fills in tiny gaps between skin cells, smoothing rough spots and delivering a light, non-greasy cushion that makes creams spread easily and feel luxurious

Who Can Use C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether

This ingredient suits almost all skin types since it is lightweight yet replenishing. Normal, dry and sensitive skin benefit most from its barrier boosting feel while combination and oily skin usually tolerate it because it absorbs quickly and leaves no heavy residue. Those with very acne prone skin may want to monitor how their skin responds because any richer lipid can occasionally contribute to congestion if layered heavily.

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether is obtained entirely from plant sources and involves no animal derivatives so it fits vegan and vegetarian preferences.

No studies have flagged issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied to intact skin. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to their routine.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so normal daily sun care habits are sufficient. It also plays well with common actives like niacinamide and retinol because it helps offset dryness without interfering with their performance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether differ from person to person. The points below list potential issues yet most users experience none of them when using a well formulated product.

  • Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching
  • Contact allergy in people sensitive to linoleic acid derivatives
  • Clogged pores or small breakouts in very oily acne prone skin when used in high amounts
  • Eye discomfort or stinging if a product migrates into the eye area

If you experience any of these effects stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5. While C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether is an oil-like molecule, its branched structure and relatively low viscosity allow it to spread thinly and absorb before it can sit in pores, placing it on the lower end of the scale. Most formulations use it at modest levels where it conditions without forming an occlusive film.

Generally suitable for acne-prone skin, though very oily or highly congested complexions might prefer lighter alternatives if they notice any buildup.

Keep in mind that overall comedogenicity depends on the full formula, application amount and how thoroughly the product is removed at the end of the day.

Summary

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxydimerdilinoleyl Ether is mainly a skin-conditioning emollient that reinforces the moisture barrier and smooths rough texture. It does this by mimicking the fatty acids naturally present in the outer layers of skin, slipping between cells to lock in water and leave a soft, supple finish.

Its use is growing steadily as brands look for plant-based substitutes for mineral oil and silicones, yet it still remains a niche ingredient that pops up more in mid to high-end moisturizers than drugstore staples.

Overall safety data show a low risk of irritation or sensitization and no links to systemic issues. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a fresh product on a small area first to rule out personal sensitivities.

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