C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine?

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine is a mild, plant-derived surfactant made by joining sarcosine, a naturally occurring amino acid, with fatty alcohols that come from coconut or palm oil. The final molecule carries both water-loving and oil-loving parts, which lets it mix oil, dirt and water with ease. First explored in the late 1960s as a gentler option to soap, it gained traction as brands looked for cleansers that would not strip skin or hair. Production starts with fatty alcohols from natural oils that are reacted with ethylene oxide to add the hydroxyethyl group, then combined with sarcosine and neutralized to form the finished, water-soluble powder or liquid. You will spot it most often in face and body washes, shampoos, bubble baths, micellar waters, shaving foams, kids’ cleansers, sulfate-free formulas and even some lightweight conditioners where extra softness and foam are needed.

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ingredient improves both how a product works and how it feels.

  • Cleansing: Lifts away oil, sweat and makeup while staying gentle on skin and scalp, which helps reduce dryness and tightness after washing
  • Hair Conditioning: Leaves a thin, smooth film on hair strands, making them feel softer and easier to comb without weighing them down
  • Foam Boosting: Creates a rich, stable lather so washes and shampoos feel luxurious and rinse out quickly
  • Viscosity Controlling: Helps thicken watery formulas, giving gels and washes the right body and flow so they dispense neatly from the bottle

Who Can Use C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine

This cleanser suits most skin and scalp types, including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its mild nature and low irritation profile make it a good pick for sensitive skin as well, though extremely reactive skin may still prefer a patch test with the finished product. Because it is typically sourced from coconut or palm oil and contains no animal-derived additives, it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data show no issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at usual concentrations. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm any skincare routine with a healthcare professional first.

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine does not absorb UV light so it does not increase photosensitivity. It is also compatible with most other common cleansing agents and conditioning polymers, making it easy to slot into multi-ingredient formulas without unexpected reactions.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine differ from person to person. The points below outline possible effects yet these remain uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly and at standard levels in finished products.

  • Mild skin irritation
  • Temporary eye stinging if the product accidentally enters the eyes
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitized to sarcosine-based surfactants
  • Scalp dryness or flaking if used in very high concentrations or combined with harsh cleansers

If any discomfort, redness or itching occurs discontinue use and seek guidance from a medical professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine is highly water soluble and rinses clean without leaving a fatty or waxy film on skin. Its molecules are relatively large and do not penetrate or clog pores, which is why formulators often reach for it in acne friendly cleansers. Because it does not add extra oil or occlusive residue, it is considered suitable for those prone to breakouts. No specific data link this ingredient to increased blackheads or whiteheads in consumer use.

Summary

C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine acts as a cleanser, mild conditioner, foam booster and viscosity controller by combining a water loving head with an oil loving tail that lifts grime while depositing a light smoothing layer on hair and skin. It also stabilizes lather and thickens formulas so products feel richer and dispense neatly.

While not a headline grabbing ingredient, it has gained steady popularity in sulfate free shampoos, gentle face washes and kids’ bath products because it delivers creamy foam without the harshness of traditional sulfates.

Safety studies and decades of use show a low risk of irritation or allergy in most people, yet individual sensitivities vary. Whenever you add a new product containing this surfactant to your routine it is wise to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees.

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