What Is C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether?
C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether is a hybrid molecule that joins maltitol, a plant-derived sugar alcohol, with mid-length fatty alcohol chains containing 12 to 14 carbon atoms. The result is a gentle surfactant-free ingredient that behaves more like a lightweight oil than a sugar. Because maltitol comes from corn or wheat starch it offers a renewable base, while the fatty chains usually come from coconut or palm kernel oil.
Chemists started exploring sugar alcohol ethers in the 1990s when brands looked for milder, more bio-based emollients to replace mineral oil. By linking maltitol to fatty chains they created an ingredient that dissolves easily in water or oil phases and gives formulas a silky afterfeel. The commercial process involves reacting purified maltitol with fatty epoxides under controlled heat and catalytic conditions, then purifying the mix to remove unreacted material.
Today you will spot C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether in moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet and rinse-off masks, creamy cleansers, hand creams, baby lotions and soothing after-sun gels. Formulators like it because it is clear, odorless, compatible with sensitive skin and can boost the performance of both natural and synthetic actives.
C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare formulas this ingredient plays more than one supportive role
- Skin conditioning – attracts light moisture to the skin surface then traps it, helping rough or flaky areas feel softer and look smoother
- Emollient – fills tiny gaps in the skin barrier to reduce water loss, adds slip so creams glide on easily and leaves a non-greasy satin finish
Who Can Use C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether
This silky emollient is classed as non irritating and non sensitizing, so it generally performs well on dry, normal, combination and sensitive skin. Its lightweight texture also makes it comfortable for oily or blemish-prone complexions that dislike heavy oils. Only those with a known allergy to sugar alcohol derivatives or coconut/palm-based fatty alcohols might need to steer clear.
The raw materials come from corn or wheat starch and plant oils, with no animal derived steps, which means products relying on this ingredient are suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Formulators still need to confirm that the entire finished product meets vegan criteria, but the ingredient itself is plant sourced.
No data indicate hormonal activity or other risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show their skincare routine to a qualified healthcare professional for personalized guidance.
C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn morning or night without boosting the skin’s vulnerability to sunlight. It is also fragrance free, gluten free after processing and compatible with most actives including retinoids, vitamin C and exfoliating acids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topically applied C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether vary with each individual. The points below cover potential but uncommon effects. When used at standard cosmetic levels most people experience none of these issues.
- Mild stinging or warmth on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Transient redness in individuals with extremely reactive skin conditions such as rosacea
- Isolated cases of contact dermatitis in those allergic to sugar alcohols or coconut/palm derivatives
- Surface congestion or tiny whiteheads in users who are highly prone to clogged pores when multiple emollients are layered
If any discomfort, rash or breakout appears discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
This low score reflects the ingredient’s balanced structure. The maltitol portion keeps it partially water compatible so it does not form a heavy film while the C12-14 fatty chains are short enough to avoid the waxy buildup linked with longer lipids. Studies and user feedback rarely connect it to blackheads or closed comedones.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without issues though overall formulation and personal skin behavior still matter.
If the finished product also includes dense butters or high levels of silicones it may feel heavier on very oily skin so texture checks are wise.
Summary
C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Maltitol Ether conditions skin and works as a light emollient. Its sugar alcohol side attracts moisture then its medium-chain fatty tails lock that moisture in filling microscopic cracks so skin feels smooth supple and calm.
While not yet a household name it is showing up more often in moisturizers cleansers and soothing masks because it is plant derived stable and easy to formulate with.
Research indicates it is safe for almost all skin types with a very low irritation and comedogenic profile. Even so every complexion is unique so run a quick patch test when trying a new product that features this ingredient just to stay on the safe side.