C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate?

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate is an ester made by combining C12-15 Alketh-12, a group of synthetic fatty alcohol ethoxylates, with oleic acid, the main fatty acid found in olive oil and many other plant oils. The result is a soft, oil-like substance that spreads easily on skin and hair. Chemists first explored this type of ingredient in the 1970s when they were looking for gentler alternatives to heavy mineral oils. By tweaking the length of the alcohol chain and the number of ethylene oxide units, they created a material that feels light, boosts slip and resists leaving a greasy film.

Manufacturing begins with plant-derived or petroleum-based fatty alcohols that have 12 to 15 carbon atoms. These alcohols are reacted with ethylene oxide to add about 12 repeating units, turning them into C12-15 Alketh-12. This intermediate is then esterified with oleic acid under heat and a catalyst until the mixture becomes uniform and clear. The final ingredient is filtered, checked for purity and shipped as a liquid or soft paste.

Because it is both oil loving and water friendly, C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate shows up in many leave-on and rinse-off products. You will find it in facial moisturizers, body lotions, sunscreens, makeup removers, lightweight hair conditioners, styling creams, cleansing balms and even some sheet mask essences. Formulators like it for its silky feel and its ability to help dissolve makeup, sunscreen and other oily residues without stripping the skin.

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves a single yet important purpose in personal care products.

Emollient: As an emollient, C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate fills the tiny gaps between skin cells, leaving the surface smoother softer and more flexible. It gives creams and lotions a light cushiony glide so they spread easily and absorb quickly. In cleansers it helps counteract the drying effect of surfactants, while in hair products it adds slip that makes detangling easier and reduces static.

Who Can Use C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate is lightweight and non occlusive, which makes it a good fit for dry, normal and combination skin types. Oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it as well because it feels less greasy than heavier plant oils, though very blemish-prone individuals may still prefer to stick with strictly non oil ingredients.

The material is made from synthetic fatty alcohols and plant-derived oleic acid with no animal by-products, so it suits both vegans and vegetarians.

No data suggest any specific risk for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding when this ingredient is used on the skin in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full product list to their doctor before regular use just to be safe.

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate does not increase photosensitivity, so wearing it during daytime does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.

The ingredient is fragrance-free, colorless and rarely triggers sensitivity, making it an option for users who react to perfumes or dyes.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

  • Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
  • Temporary stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Rare clogged pores for users who are extremely acne prone

If any discomfort, rash or breakout develops, stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 (very low)

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate is a lightweight ester that spreads thinly, absorbs well and does not form a heavy occlusive film. Its molecular structure keeps it fluid even at room temperature so it is less likely to sit in pores and harden the way thicker plant butters or waxes can. Most formulation studies list it among low clogging ingredients which is why it earns a score of 1.

Because of this low rating, the ingredient is generally fine for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, though individual tolerance can still vary.

As with any emollient, the final product formula matters. When C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate is blended with heavier oils or high wax content the overall comedogenic potential can rise so the complete ingredient list should be considered.

Summary

C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate’s main job is to act as an emollient that smooths skin, boosts slip and adds a silky finish without a greasy after feel. It does this by filling micro gaps between skin cells and creating a thin conditioning layer that locks in lightweight moisture. In cleansers and makeup removers it also helps dissolve oily residues so they rinse away more easily.

The ingredient is moderately popular, showing up in moisturizers, sunscreens, cleansing balms and light hair conditioners where formulators want a non heavy alternative to traditional plant oils.

Safety data show it to be low risk with rare reports of irritation or pore blockage. Still, skin is personal so it is always smart to patch test any new product that contains C12-15 Alketh-12 Oleate before incorporating it into a full routine.

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