C12-15 Alketh-9: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-15 Alketh-9?

C12-15 Alketh-9 is a synthetic ingredient created by reacting a blend of medium-chain fatty alcohols (those with 12 to 15 carbon atoms) with about nine units of ethylene oxide. The result is a polyethylene glycol ether that has a dual love for both oil and water, making it highly versatile in skincare and haircare formulas. It originated in the late twentieth century when formulators sought gentler, more flexible alternatives to traditional surfactants. By adjusting the length of the fatty alcohols and the number of ethylene oxide units, chemists found a sweet spot that offered reliable performance without a heavy feel.

The manufacturing process starts with petrochemical or plant-derived fatty alcohols, which are purified then fed into a reactor with ethylene oxide gas under controlled temperature and pressure. This controlled addition builds the polyethylene glycol chain, producing a clear liquid or waxy solid depending on the final concentration. After neutralization and purification, the ingredient is ready for cosmetic use.

Because C12-15 Alketh-9 can comfortably sit at the boundary of oil and water, it shows up in many types of products. You will often find it in lightweight facial moisturizers, rinse-off cleansers, sheet masks, scalp scrubs, sunscreens, styling creams and color-protecting hair treatments. It is also a common helper ingredient in anti-aging serums where a stable, elegant texture is key.

C12-15 Alketh-9’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulations this ingredient serves one main purpose that provides several practical payoffs for both manufacturers and end users.

Emulsifying: C12-15 Alketh-9 helps oil and water mingle into a smooth, uniform mixture so creams feel consistent from the first pump to the last. A stable emulsion means the product spreads evenly, absorbs better and resists separating on the shelf, giving you a reliable texture and performance every time you use it.

Who Can Use C12-15 Alketh-9

C12-15 Alketh-9 is generally considered suitable for most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry skin because it is used in low concentrations and has a mild profile. Sensitive or highly reactive skin may want to proceed with a bit more caution, as any emulsifier has the potential to cause slight irritation when the surrounding formula is not well balanced.

The ingredient is synthetic and does not rely on animal-derived starting materials so it is usually appropriate for vegetarians and vegans. Still, anyone following a strict lifestyle should double-check that the finished product carries a clear cruelty-free or vegan certification since other ingredients in the same formula may differ.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women regarding topical use of C12-15 Alketh-9. Current safety assessments have not shown absorption levels that would raise concern. This is not medical advice so those who are pregnant or nursing should review any skincare routine with their healthcare provider for personal reassurance.

C12-15 Alketh-9 is not known to increase photosensitivity and does not reduce the effectiveness of sunscreen filters. Standard daily sun protection habits remain essential but there is no special precaution tied to this emulsifier.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical C12-15 Alketh-9 vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible outcomes yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels and in well-formulated products.

  • Mild skin irritation: temporary redness, stinging or itching can occur, especially on sensitive skin or when the surrounding formula is highly acidic or alkaline
  • Contact dermatitis: very rare allergic reactions with rash or swelling have been documented in individuals already sensitised to polyethylene glycol derivatives
  • Eye irritation: if a product accidentally gets into the eyes the emulsifier can cause watering or burning until thoroughly rinsed
  • Dryness: over-cleansing formulas that contain higher levels of surfactants alongside C12-15 Alketh-9 may leave skin feeling tight

If any negative reaction develops discontinue use and consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

C12-15 Alketh-9 is highly water soluble thanks to its polyethylene glycol backbone, so it is easily rinsed from pores and does not linger as a heavy film. While it contains medium-chain fatty alcohol tails, the nine ethylene oxide units make the molecule more hydrophilic than greasy, which keeps pore-clogging risk low. Overall it is considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.

Formulas that pair this emulsifier with large amounts of rich oils or waxes could still feel heavy on very oily skin, so the finished product matters more than the single ingredient.

Summary

C12-15 Alketh-9 is mainly an emulsifier that pulls oil and water together, giving lotions, creams and cleansers a smooth, stable texture. Its dual affinity comes from a fatty alcohol segment that loves lipids and a polyethylene glycol segment that loves water, allowing it to sit at the interface and keep mixtures from separating.

The ingredient is a quiet workhorse rather than a headline act. It shows up in many mainstream moisturizers and hair products but rarely gets top billing on marketing materials because it serves a supporting role rather than offering a standout skin benefit.

Current safety reviews class it as low risk for irritation, sensitization or comedogenicity when used at typical levels. As with any new skincare product, it is wise to carry out a small patch test first to confirm personal compatibility.

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