C12-20 Isoparaffin: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-20 Isoparaffin?

C12-20 Isoparaffin is a group of lightweight liquid hydrocarbons made up of branched alkanes containing between 12 and 20 carbon atoms. They are derived from petroleum that has been highly refined to remove impurities, odor and color. The material first appeared in cosmetic labs in the 1970s when chemists looked for safe, non-greasy oils that could replace heavier mineral oils. Today most suppliers create C12-20 Isoparaffin through a process called hydrocracking, which breaks larger petroleum molecules into smaller ones, followed by isomerization that gives the final product its branched structure and silky feel.

Because it spreads easily yet feels dry to the touch, C12-20 Isoparaffin is popular in a wide variety of personal care items. You will often find it in lightweight facial moisturizers, creamy body lotions, anti-aging serums, makeup primers, cleansing balms, stick foundations, hair styling creams and even some clay masks where it helps the formula glide on smoothly.

C12-20 Isoparaffin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings several practical perks to a cosmetic formula

  • Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, breathable layer that leaves skin feeling smooth and supple while preventing water loss
  • Emollient: Fills in tiny surface gaps so skin feels softer and looks more even without a greasy after-feel
  • Solvent: Helps dissolve oily actives and pigments, keeping the overall mixture uniform and easy to apply

Who Can Use C12-20 Isoparaffin

C12-20 Isoparaffin is considered friendly for most skin types. Its light texture suits normal, combination and oily complexions because it delivers slip without a heavy, greasy film. Dry or mature skin can also benefit when the ingredient is paired with humectants that pull in water. Those with very acne prone or highly sensitive skin should take note that, while the molecule is generally non comedogenic and fragrance free, a small number of users may prefer to avoid petroleum derived oils altogether if they find such materials pore clogging or irritating.

The ingredient is petroleum based, not animal derived, so products containing it align with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal by products are involved in its manufacture.

Current safety assessments show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when C12-20 Isoparaffin is applied topically in cosmetics. This is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare routine past a qualified healthcare professional to be sure it fits personal circumstances.

C12-20 Isoparaffin does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity. It works well in daytime formulas and does not interfere with sunscreen actives.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical C12-20 Isoparaffin vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects yet most consumers will not experience them when using a well formulated product.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in very acne prone skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to petroleum derivatives
  • Eye irritation if the product drifts into the eye area

If you notice any discomfort or reaction while using a product containing C12-20 Isoparaffin stop use and consult a healthcare professional for further guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. C12-20 Isoparaffin molecules are branched and lightweight so they sit on the surface without compacting inside pores the way thicker straight chain mineral oils sometimes can. Most lab and consumer reports describe a low tendency to trigger blackheads or whiteheads which is why the rating is close to non comedogenic but not a perfect zero. For the average person including those who are acne prone this ingredient is generally considered safe to use in leave-on and rinse-off products.

Formulation level matters. If C12-20 Isoparaffin shows up near the top of an ingredient list in a heavy balm or stick foundation people with very oily skin might notice a bit more congestion compared with a light lotion where it appears in smaller amounts.

Summary

C12-20 Isoparaffin serves three main jobs in cosmetics: it conditions skin by forming a soft breathable layer that slows water loss, works as an emollient that smooths rough spots for a silky after feel and acts as a solvent that keeps pigments or oily actives evenly dispersed. It performs these roles thanks to its branched hydrocarbon structure which spreads easily then dries down without stickiness.

The ingredient is fairly popular in modern formulations especially in products that aim for a lightweight texture such as serums primers and fluid moisturizers. While plant oils get more spotlight in marketing labs still rely on C12-20 Isoparaffin when they need consistent odorless slip at an affordable cost.

Current safety assessments show a very low risk of toxicity or irritation at the levels used in skincare and makeup. Still every skin type is different so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before applying it to the entire face just to be safe.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search