C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester?

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is a blend of long chain fatty acids that have been joined with ethylene glycol to form stable esters. The fatty acids, which range from 18 to 36 carbon atoms in length, are typically sourced from renewable vegetable oils such as soybean or canola. Through a controlled heating process known as esterification, the acids react with ethylene glycol to create a smooth, wax like substance that is easy to work with in modern manufacturing.

The ingredient first gained traction in the late twentieth century when formulators looked for plant derived alternatives to mineral oil. Its reliable texture, skin friendly feel and ability to mix oil and water quickly made it a favorite in both skin care and color cosmetics. Today it can be found in moisturizers, face masks, cleansing balms, makeup primers, lipsticks, hair conditioners and even solid perfume sticks. Its versatility lies in the way it softens the skin while also helping a product hold its shape and stay stable over time.

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ester brings several helpful roles to a formula

  • Skin Conditioning: forms a light breathable layer that leaves skin feeling soft and supple
  • Emollient: fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface smoothing rough patches and giving an immediate silky finish
  • Cleansing: loosens makeup excess oil and daily grime so they rinse away with less effort reducing the need for harsh surfactants
  • Emulsifying: helps water based and oil based ingredients stay blended improving texture stability and shelf life

Who Can Use C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester

This ester is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including dry, normal, combination and mature skin. Oily and acne prone users usually handle it well because of its lightweight feel though those who struggle with frequent breakouts may prefer to keep an eye on how their skin responds in richer formulas.

The ingredient is produced from vegetable oils and contains no animal derived components so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Based on current safety data products with C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester are considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review any new skin care product with a qualified health professional to be sure it fits their personal needs.

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester does not make the skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used in daytime or nighttime products without extra precautions.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues but most people will not encounter them when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to certain plant oils used as the original fatty acid source
  • Temporary pore congestion if applied in extremely heavy layers on skin already prone to blocked pores
  • Eye irritation if the raw material or a product containing it accidentally gets into the eyes

If you notice any irritation discomfort or unexpected reaction discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5

This ester is lightweight compared with many natural oils yet still contains long chain fatty acids that can sit on the skin if overused. Its larger molecular structure limits deep pore penetration which keeps clogging potential modest, but very occlusive formulas or thick applications could trap debris for some users.

Most acne-prone individuals tolerate it well though those with highly reactive oily skin might prefer products that use it sparingly or combine it with faster-absorbing emollients.

Blending it with silica, starch or volatile silicones is a common formulating trick to further cut down any pore-blocking feel.

Summary

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester acts as a skin conditioner, emollient, mild cleanser and emulsifier. It smooths rough patches by filling surface gaps, lifts makeup and excess oil so they rinse away easily, binds water and oil for stable creams and forms a soft breathable film that leaves skin supple.

It pops up in moisturizers, cleansing balms, primers and solid sticks yet stays under the radar because it works quietly behind flashier actives.

Safety data and long usage history point to a low risk of irritation or sensitization, making it suitable for most skin types. Still, give any new product a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility before regular use.

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