C20-22 Alketh-30: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C20-22 Alketh-30?

C20-22 Alketh-30 is a man-made ingredient created by joining polyethylene glycol (PEG) with long-chain fatty alcohols that each have 20 to 22 carbon atoms. The process, called ethoxylation, links roughly 30 units of ethylene oxide to the alcohol mix. The fatty alcohol part of the molecule is often made from plant oils or petroleum sources, while the PEG part comes from ethylene oxide gas.

The idea of turning fatty alcohols into mild nonionic surfactants took hold in the mid-20th century as brands searched for gentler cleansers than traditional soap. Over time chemists fine-tuned chain length and PEG units, leading to ingredients like C20-22 Alketh-30 that balance cleaning power with skin feel. It first appeared in shampoos and body washes, then spread to lotions and facial care as its stabilizing traits became clear.

Today you will spot C20-22 Alketh-30 in liquid cleansers, shampoos, body washes, makeup removers, facial masks, moisturizers and light creams. Formulators like it because it mixes oils and water smoothly and keeps products from separating on the shelf or in your hand.

C20-22 Alketh-30’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings two main jobs to a formula

  • Cleansing: The molecule’s oil-loving tail grabs dirt, oil and makeup while the water-loving PEG chain helps rinse them away. This gentle surfactant action leaves skin or hair feeling clean without a tight after-feel
  • Emulsifying: C20-22 Alketh-30 holds water and oil together so lotions stay creamy and washes stay uniform. A stable emulsion means a smoother texture, even delivery of actives and a longer shelf life

Who Can Use C20-22 Alketh-30

Because C20-22 Alketh-30 is a mild nonionic surfactant it tends to suit most skin types including oily, normal and combination skin. Sensitive or very dry skin can also tolerate it in leave-on products when the overall formula is well balanced with moisturizers though people with an already compromised skin barrier might feel a touch of tightness after prolonged exposure in high-foaming cleansers.

The ingredient itself is synthetic or plant-derived so it is typically acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. If strict plant sourcing is important consumers should confirm with the brand that no animal by-products were used in the fatty alcohol portion.

C20-22 Alketh-30 has a long safety record and its large molecular size means it barely penetrates the skin. Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women however this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run new skincare items past a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there are no known interactions with common actives like retinoids or vitamin C. It is also considered color-safe for hair and does not strip dyes faster than regular cleansing surfactants.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical C20-22 Alketh-30 differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only possibilities and are unlikely for the typical user when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Mild transient skin irritation such as redness or stinging, usually when the concentration is high or skin is already compromised
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals who develop a specific sensitivity to polyethylene glycol type ingredients
  • Dryness or a tight feel if the formula lacks counterbalancing emollients, more noticeable on very dry skin
  • Eye irritation when shampoos or cleansers containing the ingredient are not rinsed out promptly

If any persistent irritation or discomfort occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

C20-22 Alketh-30 is a bulky nonionic surfactant that mostly sits on the skin surface and rinses away with water. It contains long chain fatty alcohols yet the high level of PEG units keeps the molecule water loving and prevents it from clogging pores. Because it is used at modest percentages and does not build up easily its likelihood of trapping sebum or dead cells is quite low.

People who are prone to acne can generally use products containing C20-22 Alketh-30 without seeing more breakouts.

No data suggests the ingredient promotes fungal acne and it is not known to interact with acne medications in a way that would worsen congestion.

Summary

C20-22 Alketh-30 works as a mild cleanser and as an emulsifier. The lipophilic alcohol end lifts oils and debris while the hydrophilic PEG chain lets them rinse away, giving a gentle clean feel. That same split personality lets it bind water and oil in creams or washes so formulas stay smooth and stable.

It is a solid supporting actor rather than a headline maker, showing up quietly in everything from shampoo to face lotion where formulators want low irritancy and reliable stability.

Safety studies and decades of use show a low risk profile with irritation or allergy appearing only in rare cases. As with any new skincare product a simple patch test is wise before full use to be sure your own skin handles it well.

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