What Is Camphor?
Camphor is a naturally occurring compound formally known as 1,7,7-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]-2-heptanone, often called bornan-2-one. It is most famously sourced from the wood of the camphor laurel tree, although today it is largely produced by chemically converting turpentine oil from evergreen trees. The crystalline, waxy solid has a cool, penetrating scent that has intrigued people for centuries. In fact traders carried camphor along the Silk Road as far back as the tenth century for its aroma and preservative qualities, and by the late 1800s it had found its way into beauty balms and pomades. Modern manufacturing uses fractional distillation followed by purification to yield cosmetic-grade camphor with consistent purity.
In skin care and personal care formulas you will often spot camphor in masks that aim to refresh tired skin, in foot creams meant to revive and deodorize, in certain toners that leave a cooling sensation, in styling products where flexible hold is desired and in nail treatments to keep lacquers from becoming brittle.
Camphor’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how camphor supports different types of cosmetic formulas
- Denaturant: Camphor can be added to cosmetic alcohols to make them unfit for consumption which helps brands use high levels of alcohol for quick-drying sprays or gels without facing beverage taxes or extra regulations
- Fragrance: Its unmistakable clean, minty aroma gives products an instant sensory lift so mists, balms and creams smell fresh and invigorating without synthetic perfumes
- Plasticiser: Camphor helps flexible films form on the surface of hair, nails or skin making polishes less prone to cracking and hair gels easier to restyle while keeping the finish smooth
Who Can Use Camphor
Camphor generally works best for normal, oily or combination skin because it delivers a light cooling feel without leaving an oily residue. Very dry, highly sensitive or compromised skin can find it too stimulating since its vapors and mild rubefacient effect may increase redness and discomfort.
The ingredient is plant derived or synthetically produced from turpentine oil so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians provided the finished formula contains no animal by-products.
Topical camphor in the low percentages allowed in cosmetics is not known to pose a major risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women, but safety data are limited. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding camphor products to a routine.
Camphor does not increase photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It should, however, be avoided on broken skin or in leave-on products for young children because their skin barrier is thinner and more absorbent.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical camphor differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues, though most users will not encounter them when products are formulated and used correctly.
- Transient burning, stinging or warming sensation shortly after application
- Redness or irritation in individuals with very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching, rash or swelling
- Headache, dizziness or nausea from inhaling concentrated fumes in poorly ventilated areas
- Toxicity such as vomiting, muscle twitching or seizures if substantial amounts are absorbed through damaged skin or large body areas
- Heightened irritation when layered with other strong rubefacients like menthol or methyl salicylate
If any adverse effect occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Camphor is a light, volatile compound that evaporates quickly instead of sitting on the skin the way heavier oils do. It does not form occlusive films that trap dead cells or sebum so the chance of it blocking pores is minimal. For that reason it earns a rating of 1.
Because of this low score, camphor is generally considered fine for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
One thing to note is that camphor is often paired with alcohol or menthol in formulas. If you are sensitive to those co-ingredients watch for irritation that can mimic breakouts even though the camphor itself is not clogging pores.
Summary
Camphor shows up in cosmetics mainly as a denaturant, a fragrance note and a mild plasticiser. It denatures alcohol by making it taste bitter so brands can use high proof alcohol in sprays without beverage taxes. Its crisp, minty scent adds an immediate fresh kick to balms, creams and toners. As a plasticiser it slips between rigid polymer chains in hair gels, nail lacquers or flexible masks so these films stay bendy instead of cracking.
The ingredient is not the hottest trend on social media today but it holds steady popularity in foot creams, after-sport rubs, certain lip balms and classic nail products where its cooling feel and film flexibility still shine.
At the low levels allowed in cosmetics camphor is regarded as safe for healthy adult skin, though very sensitive skin types may feel a brief tingle. As with any new ingredient it is smart to patch test a product first, especially if your skin reacts easily.