Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer?

Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is a plant derived ingredient created from hemp seed oil. Chemists start with Cannabis sativa seed oil, a non psychoactive oil rich in fatty acids, and put it through a transesterification process with dilinoleyl alcohol. The resulting esters are then linked together to form a large, flexible copolymer. This gives the ingredient a lightweight oily feel along with film forming traits that make it useful in skincare and makeup.

The technology behind dimerized fatty acids emerged in the 1980s as formulators looked for natural yet high performance alternatives to petroleum based film formers. When the beauty industry turned to hemp seed oil for its skin friendly profile, labs adapted the same chemistry to this sustainable source, leading to the launch of Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer in the last decade.

The copolymer is produced in several steps. First hemp seed oil is split and combined with dilinoleyl alcohol under controlled heat to create new ester bonds. Two of these ester chains are then dimerized, meaning they are joined end to end, and finally polymerized to build a larger structure. The finished material is a clear to pale yellow liquid or soft solid that disperses easily in oils, silicones and many natural butters.

You will most often see this ingredient in moisturizing creams, barrier repair balms, lipsticks, foundations, long wear eyeliners, sun care products, hair masks and anti aging serums. It works well wherever a smooth breathable film and long lasting comfort are desired.

Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking copolymer offers several advantages to modern formulations:

  • Binding – Helps hold pressed powders together and improves the texture of sticks, pencils and solid balms so they stay intact instead of crumbling
  • Film Forming – Creates a flexible breathable layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture, boosts wear time of makeup and enhances water resistance in sunscreens
  • Skin Conditioning – Leaves a silky non greasy finish that softens rough patches and improves overall skin feel without clogging pores
  • Skin Protecting – Forms a light barrier that shields skin from environmental aggressors like wind and pollution while reducing transepidermal water loss
  • Surface Modifier – Smooths uneven skin or hair surfaces giving formulas better spreadability and a refined finish that feels luxurious

Who Can Use Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer

This ingredient suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination, sensitive and mature skin because it is lightweight and non occlusive. Oily or acne prone users generally tolerate it as well since the copolymer forms a breathable film rather than a heavy wax, though extremely breakout prone individuals may prefer lighter textures overall.

Because it is derived entirely from plant sources it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal derived substances are used at any stage of its production.

There is no evidence that topical use poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified health professional before use to be on the safe side.

The copolymer does not increase photosensitivity so it can be worn during daytime without heightened sun risk. It is also odorless and free of psychoactive cannabinoids which makes it suitable for users sensitive to fragrance or concerned about THC exposure.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below cover potential side effects that are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is correctly formulated.

  • Mild temporary redness or itching in very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to hemp seed oil or related botanical ingredients
  • Occasional clogged pores or breakouts in users who are extremely acne prone when the product texture is particularly rich
  • Eye irritation if the raw ingredient or finished product accidentally gets into the eyes

If you notice irritation, breakouts or any discomfort stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

This low score reflects the ingredient’s large polymer structure which sits on top of skin rather than seeping into pores. It has a lightweight feel similar to hemp seed oil, itself considered non clogging, and the added dimerization further reduces any tendency to build up inside follicles. Formulas using high levels of heavy waxes or butters could still provoke congestion, but by itself Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is unlikely to trigger breakouts.

In short, most acne-prone users can comfortably use products containing this copolymer, provided the overall formula is appropriately balanced for oily skin.

Worth noting: the ingredient is oil dispersible, so it may appear in rich balms aimed at very dry skin. If you are acne prone keep an eye on the full ingredient list, as the clogging potential often comes from the surrounding oils not the copolymer.

Summary

Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer binds powders, forms a flexible film, conditions and protects skin and smooths surfaces for better spreadability. It does this by linking dimerized fatty acid chains from hemp seed oil into a lightweight polymer that coats skin or hair with a breathable layer, locking in moisture and improving wear time of makeup and sunscreens.

While not yet a household name, the ingredient is gaining traction among clean beauty and vegan formulators who want plant based performance similar to synthetic film formers. Its safety profile is strong, with minimal irritation or comedogenic risk reported, though any new product can cause individual sensitivities. Patch testing a small area first is always a smart move when adding a fresh formula to your routine.

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