Capramide Dea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Capramide Dea?

Capramide Dea, formally known as N,N-bis(2-Hydroxyethyl)decan-1-amide, is a plant-derived fatty amide made by reacting decanoic acid (often sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil) with diethanolamine. The result is a creamy, water-soluble ingredient that blends the softness of natural oils with the practicality of modern chemistry. First explored in the 1970s as a way to improve shampoo texture, it quickly found a place in hair and skin care because it plays well with both water and oils. Production starts by purifying the fatty acid, combining it with food-grade diethanolamine under controlled heat and then refining the mixture to remove impurities. Today you will spot Capramide Dea in shampoos, conditioners, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths, hair masks and even some lightweight lotions where it helps products feel richer without making them greasy.

Capramide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators like Capramide Dea because it wears many hats in a single recipe, making products perform better while keeping formulas simple.

  • Antistatic: Reduces the static charge that can cause flyaways so hair looks smoother and easier to style
  • Hair Conditioning: Deposits a light, non-oily film that softens strands improves combability and boosts shine
  • Cleansing: Helps lift away dirt oil and buildup allowing shampoos and washes to clean effectively without stripping
  • Foam Boosting: Enhances lather volume and stability giving users a satisfying, creamy foam that rinses cleanly
  • Viscosity Controlling: Thickens watery formulas to a pleasant, easy-to-dispense texture which can also stabilize suspensions of fragrances and actives

Who Can Use Capramide Dea

Capramide Dea is gentle enough for most skin and hair types. Because it is water soluble and lightly conditioning it suits normal, oily and combination skin as well as fine to medium hair that needs slip without heaviness. Sensitive or highly reactive skin can usually tolerate it, though formulas with high levels of diethanolamine derivatives might cause mild irritation in a very small group of users.

The fatty acid portion is sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil and no animal by-products are used, so Capramide Dea is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety assessments indicate it is safe for pregnant and breastfeeding women when used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at typical concentrations. This is general information only and not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss new products with a healthcare professional.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so daylight exposure is not a concern. It is also biodegradable and tends to be used in wash-off products, making it an environmentally friendlier choice compared with some synthetic surfactants.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Capramide Dea differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as intended.

  • Mild skin irritation
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to diethanolamine derivatives
  • Eye stinging or watering if shampoo or cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Scalp dryness or flaking when very high concentrations are used
  • Allergic reaction presenting as redness swelling or itching
  • Theoretical risk of trace nitrosamine formation if the finished product also contains nitrites

If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

Capramide Dea dissolves fully in water and does not leave an oily residue on skin, which limits its ability to clog pores. Its molecule is larger than typical pore blockers and it is normally used in rinse-off formats like shampoos and body washes, giving it little time to sit on skin. For these reasons formulators consider it only slightly comedogenic.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.

Because the ingredient usually appears alongside other surfactants, the overall comedogenicity of a product will depend on the full formula rather than on Capramide Dea alone.

Summary

Capramide Dea acts as an antistatic agent, light conditioner, gentle cleanser, foam booster and viscosity controller. It achieves this by combining a fatty tail that loves oils with two hydroxyethyl arms that love water, letting it bridge the gap between the two phases, lift away dirt, smooth hair cuticles, build lush lather and thicken watery bases.

While not a household name like coconut oil or glycerin, it is quietly popular among formulators who need a single ingredient that can multitask without driving up cost or complexity. You will mostly find it in mid-range to mass-market hair products where creamy feel and easy rinse are important.

Current research shows it is safe at typical cosmetic levels with a very low rate of irritation or sensitisation. Still, every person’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product containing Capramide Dea before full use, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

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