What Is Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine?
Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine is a specialty surfactant derived from isostearic acid, a fatty acid that often comes from plant oils such as rapeseed or soybean. Chemists react isostearic acid with amino-propyl morpholine, then add a carboxymethyl group to create an inner salt, giving the molecule both water-loving and oil-loving parts. That dual nature lets it mix oils, dirt and water, which is why it earns a place in personal care formulas.
The ingredient first appeared in professional salon shampoos in the early 2000s when formulators looked for milder alternatives to traditional quats and sulfates. Its popularity grew as brands shifted toward multifunctional ingredients that could soften hair while improving foam quality. Production involves controlled amidation of isostearic acid, quaternization with morpholine, followed by carboxymethylation. The resulting paste or liquid is filtered, neutralized and standardized for consistent performance.
You will most often see Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine in shampoos, 2-in-1 cleansers, conditioning masks, co-wash products, bath foams and some mild facial cleansers aimed at dry or textured hair types. Its gentle profile also suits leave-in sprays and styling creams where static control matters.
Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient earns its keep by performing several helpful tasks in one formula
- Antistatic: Forms a light film on hair strands that reduces surface charge so flyaways and static cling are noticeably tamed, especially in dry weather or after heat styling
- Foaming: Boosts and stabilizes lather, giving shampoos and body washes that rich creamy foam consumers expect even when sulfate levels are low
- Hair Conditioning: Deposits fatty conditioning agents onto the cuticle, making hair feel softer, smoother and easier to detangle without weighing it down
- Cleansing: Acts as a mild surfactant that lifts dirt and excess oil while respecting the scalp’s natural barrier, helping formulas achieve a gentle yet effective clean
Who Can Use Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin and scalp types. Its mild surfactant action suits oily, balanced and dry skin alike, and its conditioning touch is especially welcome for textured or chemically treated hair that needs softness. Sensitive skin users usually get along with it because the molecule has a low irritation profile, though anyone with a known allergy to fatty acid derivatives should stay cautious.
Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine is typically sourced from plant oils like rapeseed or soybean, so products using it are suitable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the rest of the formula and processing aids are also plant based. Always check the full ingredient list if animal by-products are a concern.
No specific warnings have been issued for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The ingredient has very low systemic absorption and is used in rinse-off formats. Still, this is not medical advice and expecting or nursing mothers should run any skincare or haircare product past their healthcare provider to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to the sun, so it does not raise the risk of sunburn or discoloration. It also plays well with most common cosmetic ingredients and does not alter hair color treatments.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues only; most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.
- Mild scalp or skin irritation
- Eye stinging if shampoo lather drips into the eyes
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to fatty acid amide structures
- Build-up on very fine hair if a formula contains high levels or is not rinsed thoroughly
If any discomfort, redness or itching occurs while using a product that contains this ingredient stop use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (low)
This molecule is large, water-soluble and normally used in rinse-off products, so it does not sit on skin long enough to clog pores. While it is built on a fatty acid backbone, the finished surfactant is far less oily than raw isostearic acid, which keeps the comedogenic risk low.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone users in most cases.
Because formulas usually contain only a few percent of this ingredient and are washed away after use, the chance of pore blockage is even lower than its rating suggests.
Summary
Carboxymethyl Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine works as an antistatic agent, foam booster, mild cleanser and light conditioner. Its structure has both water-loving and oil-loving parts, letting it lift away dirt while leaving behind a thin smoothing film that calms static and makes hair feel softer.
The ingredient is popular in salon shampoos and co-wash products but is still something of a niche pick compared with classic surfactants like SLS or cocamidopropyl betaine. Brands that focus on gentle multitasking formulas often choose it to simplify their ingredient lists.
Safety studies and real-world use show a very low risk of irritation or allergy when used at normal cosmetic levels. Still, skin can be unpredictable, so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this ingredient before full use.