Carboxymethyl Levan: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Carboxymethyl Levan?

Carboxymethyl Levan is a modified form of levan, a natural fructan sugar that certain plants and microorganisms produce as a storage carbohydrate. Chemists attach carboxymethyl groups to the levan backbone, which improves its ability to dissolve in water and interact with skin. This tweak gives the ingredient a smooth gel-like feel that formulators value in skincare.

Levan itself has been studied since the early 1900s, but it was not until more recent decades that researchers explored ways to make it more user-friendly for cosmetics. By the late 1990s labs refined a simple alkaline reaction that bonds chloroacetic acid to levan, producing Carboxymethyl Levan in a powdered or syrup form suitable for large-scale use.

Because of its gentle origin and pleasant texture the ingredient shows up in leave-on moisturizers, hydrating masks, anti-aging serums, soothing after-sun gels and even some lightweight lotions designed for oily or combination skin. Its ability to draw and hold water makes it especially helpful in products that aim to keep skin plump and comfortable throughout the day.

Carboxymethyl Levan’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas Carboxymethyl Levan serves more than one purpose, making it a flexible choice for chemists and a welcome addition for users.

  • Humectant – Pulls moisture from the environment and from deeper skin layers to the surface, helping skin stay hydrated softer and more supple for longer periods
  • Skin Conditioning – Forms a light film on the surface that smooths rough patches, improves overall feel and can enhance the spreadability of other active ingredients

Who Can Use Carboxymethyl Levan

Thanks to its gentle humectant nature Carboxymethyl Levan suits most skin types. Dry and dehydrated skin benefit from the long-lasting hydration while normal and combination skin appreciate the lightweight feel that does not leave a greasy film. Oily and acne-prone users often tolerate it well because the molecule is large enough to sit on the surface without clogging pores. Sensitive skin generally finds it non-irritating though anyone with a rare fructan allergy should proceed cautiously.

The ingredient is produced from plant or microbial sources without animal derivatives so it is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.

No studies suggest specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when using products containing Carboxymethyl Levan. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show the full product ingredient list to a healthcare provider before use just to be safe.

Carboxymethyl Levan does not increase photosensitivity. It is water-soluble, works across a broad pH range, and plays nicely with most other common cosmetic ingredients.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Carboxymethyl Levan vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient appears in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild redness or tingling in very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fructans or related polysaccharides
  • Temporary sticky or tight feeling if used at a high concentration or in low humidity
  • Breakdown of the polymer in highly acidic formulas which could reduce product performance
  • Microbial contamination if the finished product lacks adequate preservation since the sugar backbone can serve as a food source for bacteria or yeast

If any irritation or other negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)

Carboxymethyl Levan is a large, water-soluble sugar polymer that stays on the surface of the skin instead of seeping into pores. It contains no oily or waxy components that could block follicles, and it rinses away easily. For these reasons it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score.

This makes the ingredient suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Because it attracts water, formulas containing Carboxymethyl Levan often feel light and refreshing rather than heavy, a further plus for oily or blemish-prone skin types.

Summary

Carboxymethyl Levan functions mainly as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. It pulls moisture toward the upper layers of the skin and lays down a thin, silky film that smooths texture and boosts the glide of a formula.

While it offers results similar to more famous hydrators like hyaluronic acid, Carboxymethyl Levan is still a niche ingredient that you will spot in a smaller selection of moisturizers, gels and serums. Its gentle origin, vegan profile and non-comedogenic nature make it appealing to formulators looking for an alternative hydrator.

Current research and decades of safe use suggest a very low risk of irritation or other issues, but everyone’s skin is unique. When trying a new product that features Carboxymethyl Levan it is wise to perform a quick patch test first just to be safe.

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