What Is Cellobiose Octanonanoate?
Cellobiose Octanonanoate is a lab made ingredient derived from cellobiose, a natural sugar unit that comes from cellulose in plants such as cotton and wood pulp. Chemists change the original sugar by attaching eight short fatty acid chains called nonanoic acid. This new structure keeps the gentle nature of the sugar while adding a slightly oily character that helps it blend well in creams and lotions.
The idea of linking sugars with fatty acids started in the late 1990s when researchers looked for plant based thickeners that could match the feel of petrolatum or mineral oil. After several trials the octanonanoate form of cellobiose was found to give a smooth, silk like finish without a greasy afterfeel. It moved from the lab bench to pilot batches in the early 2000s and is now made on an industrial scale using green chemistry steps: purified cellobiose is reacted with activated nonanoic acid under mild heat then the mixture is cleaned and filtered to remove any leftover acids or solvents.
You will mainly spot Cellobiose Octanonanoate in leave on skin care such as moisturizers, night creams, anti aging serums, sheet masks and rich eye balms. It can also appear in creamy makeup like foundations and tinted moisturizers where a soft, cushiony texture is desired.
Cellobiose Octanonanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas Cellobiose Octanonanoate serves one key purpose: it controls viscosity. By thickening the water phase and helping oil droplets stay evenly spread it gives products a smooth, stable texture that feels luxurious when applied. This helps prevent runny or separated creams and allows brands to create richer products without relying on heavy waxes or silicones. Users notice an even glide, quicker absorption and a soft finish that makes skin feel pampered.
Who Can Use Cellobiose Octanonanoate
Because it acts mainly as a texture enhancer rather than an active treatment, Cellobiose Octanonanoate is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry and mature skin appreciate the soft cushion it adds, while its light non greasy feel means oily and combination skin do not usually find it heavy or pore clogging. Sensitive skin tends to handle it well since it has no fragrance, colorants or known irritant motifs.
The ingredient is produced entirely from plant sources, starting with cellobiose from wood pulp and nonanoic acid made through vegetable based fermentation, so it meets vegan and vegetarian standards without the need for animal testing or by products.
No data links Cellobiose Octanonanoate to hormonal disruption or fetal concerns, so it is viewed as safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare choice past a qualified doctor just to be sure.
Unlike certain acids or essential oils this molecule does not increase photosensitivity, so daytime use carries no extra sun risk beyond what is normal for skin exposure.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Cellobiose Octanonanoate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation – a temporary feeling of warmth, stinging or itching can appear in very reactive skin
- Redness or rash – rare cases of contact dermatitis have been reported in users allergic to fatty acid derivatives
- Clogged pores – while rated low on the comedogenic scale extremely acne prone individuals could notice small bumps if the overall formula is rich
If any discomfort or unusual reaction develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Cellobiose Octanonanoate is built on a water-loving sugar backbone that helps it rinse or wear away cleanly, and the attached nonanoic acid chains are mid-length so they do not pack tightly inside pores. It is typically used at low levels as a texture helper rather than a heavy emollient, which keeps its pore-clogging potential minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone skin in most cases, though overall formula richness still matters.
Worth noting: any ingredient combined with heavy waxes or butters can increase the risk of congestion, so judge the whole product, not this single component.
Summary
Cellobiose Octanonanoate’s main job is to control viscosity, stabilising emulsions and giving creams a smooth cushiony feel without greasiness. It does this by bridging water and oil phases through its sugar head and fatty tails, holding droplets in place and mildly thickening the mix.
While not a headline act like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it is quietly gaining traction among formulators who want plant-based texture boosters that meet clean beauty demands.
Current safety data shows a low risk of irritation or sensitisation, and its comedogenic rating sits at the low end, making it broadly safe for daily use on most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient, patch testing a finished product remains a smart precaution.