What Is Chitosan Lactate?
Chitosan lactate is a salt made by pairing chitosan with lactic acid. Chitosan itself comes from chitin, a natural substance found in the shells of shrimp, crab and other crustaceans. When those shells are cleaned, ground and treated with an alkaline solution, chitin turns into chitosan. Adding lactic acid converts it into the more water friendly chitosan lactate.
Scientists first looked at chitosan in the 1980s for wound dressings because it could form a protective film. Cosmetic chemists soon noticed that same film forming trait could smooth skin and help hair hold a style. Today manufacturers produce chitosan lactate in large tanks where purified chitosan is mixed with food grade lactic acid under controlled heat and pH, then filtered and dried into a fine powder.
You will most often see chitosan lactate in leave on skin care such as serums, light lotions and sheet masks, as well as in styling gels, mousses and sprays aimed at giving soft flexible hold. Some anti aging formulas also sneak it in to create a quick lifting feel on the skin surface.
Chitosan Lactate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient pulls double duty
- Film forming – creates a sheer breathable layer that locks in moisture, leaves skin feeling silky and gives hair a smoother surface which reflects more shine
- Hair fixing – offers light to medium hold helping styles last longer without the stiffness or flaking that stronger resins can cause
Who Can Use Chitosan Lactate
Because it is light and breathable, chitosan lactate suits most skin types including normal, oily, combination and even dry skin that needs help holding on to moisture. Very sensitive or highly reactive skin may want to proceed with caution since any film former can sometimes feel tight or trigger redness if the barrier is already compromised.
The ingredient is sourced from shrimp or other shellfish shells so it is not considered vegan or vegetarian friendly. Although some suppliers are experimenting with fungal chitosan, nearly all material on the market still comes from marine sources.
No specific concerns have been raised for pregnant or breastfeeding women when chitosan lactate is used in rinse off or leave on cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any product past their doctor or midwife just to be safe.
Chitosan lactate does not make skin more sensitive to the sun and has no known effect on tanning or burning. It also plays well with most other common cosmetic ingredients so there are no special layering rules to keep in mind.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical chitosan lactate differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well formulated product.
- Allergic response in people with shellfish allergy
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive or broken skin
- Dry or stiff feeling hair if the product is over applied
- Flaking of the film layer when too much is layered or when combined with heavy silicones
If any of these issues crop up stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Chitosan lactate is water friendly and forms a very lightweight film that rinses away easily, so it is unlikely to clog pores. It does not contain oils or waxes that can trap sebum and dead cells. Because of this low score it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Limited research exists on its pore-clogging potential, though, so individual experiences can vary.
Summary
Chitosan lactate works mainly as a film former and mild hair fixative. On skin it creates a sheer layer that slows moisture loss and delivers a quick-smoothing feel. In hair products the same film adds light hold and boosts shine without stiffness. While useful, it is not yet a headline ingredient so you will see it more in niche or specialty formulas than in every drugstore aisle.
Overall it has a strong safety profile with few reported issues aside from possible reactions in people with shellfish allergies. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to test a small patch first to be sure your skin agrees with it.