What Is Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan?
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan is a modified form of pullulan, a natural sugar polymer produced through the fermentation of the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Chemists attach small side chains made from cholesteryl hexamethylenediisocyanate to the pullulan backbone, creating a hybrid molecule that mixes the water loving nature of the sugar with the oil friendly character of cholesterol. This balanced structure helps the ingredient blend well with both watery and oily parts of a cosmetic formula.
Interest in pullulan derivatives grew in the late 1990s when formulators looked for plant based film formers that could replace synthetic gums. By linking cholesterol segments to pullulan, researchers discovered a thicker, more stable polymer suited for modern skin care textures. Production involves first fermenting and purifying pullulan, then reacting it with cholesteryl hexamethylenediisocyanate under controlled heat and pH. The finished powder or viscous liquid is filtered, dried and tested for purity before shipping to cosmetic labs.
You will most often see Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan in sheet masks, anti aging serums, rich moisturizers, makeup primers, sunscreens and certain hair styling creams where a smooth yet flexible texture is desired.
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan mainly works as a viscosity controlling agent, helping chemists fine tune how thick or fluid a product feels. By swelling in water and interacting with oils it creates a stable gel network that keeps lotions from separating, improves spreadability and gives masks that satisfying cling to the skin. A well balanced viscosity holds active ingredients in place longer, which can improve the overall performance and sensory feel of the finished product.
Who Can Use Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin because it serves mainly as a texture enhancer rather than an active that penetrates deeply. Extremely acne prone users may want to keep an eye on how their skin responds since the cholesteryl side chains add a touch of richness that could, in very rare cases, feel too occlusive for some.
Vegans should note that while the pullulan portion comes from fungal fermentation, the cholesteryl segment is often sourced from lanolin-derived cholesterol, which is animal based. Some suppliers now offer plant sterol alternatives, yet unless the brand clearly states the material is plant derived it is safest for strict vegans to assume it is not vegan friendly. Most vegetarians are comfortable with lanolin sourced ingredients, but those avoiding all animal byproducts should verify the supply chain.
There is no evidence that topical Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in cosmetic concentrations. The molecule is large, sits mainly on the skin surface and is unlikely to reach systemic circulation. That said, this is not medical advice. Anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare product with their healthcare provider to be sure it aligns with their personal situation.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be used day or night without heightened risk of sun damage. Apart from standard personal sensitivities, there are no other notable usage restrictions.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual reactions to topical Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan can vary. The following is a list of potential, but uncommon, side effects. When the ingredient is properly formulated most users will not experience these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
- Contact dermatitis in those already allergic to pullulan derivatives or cholesterol based materials
- Temporary clogged pores or small breakouts in very acne prone skin
- Eye irritation if a formula containing the ingredient migrates into the eyes
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a medical professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan is a large, surface-sitting polymer that does not easily penetrate pores. While the cholesteryl side chains add a hint of richness, the overall molecule is still mostly water-compatible pullulan, so it is unlikely to trap oil or debris deep inside follicles. A rating of 1 reflects this low clogging potential while acknowledging that extremely oily or congestion-prone skin might notice a slight occlusive feel in very heavy formulas.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without concern.
Comedogenicity always depends on the total formula, so a lightweight gel with this polymer will behave differently from a thick balm that pairs it with heavy oils.
Summary
Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan is mainly valued for viscosity control and light film forming. Its pullulan backbone swells in water to thicken formulas while the cholesteryl branches interact with oils, creating a stable network that keeps emulsions uniform and gives creams or serums a smooth glide. That same network lays down a flexible film on skin, helping products stay put and feel silky.
The ingredient sits in the middle of the popularity chart. It is not as common as classic gums like xanthan but shows up in modern sheet masks, primers and luxe moisturizers where a refined texture is key.
Safety data points to very low risk of irritation or systemic exposure, making it suitable for most users including those who are pregnant or have sensitive skin. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a fresh product to make sure it agrees with your unique skin.