What Is Choleth-20?
Choleth-20 is a synthetic ingredient made by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to cholesterol, a waxy substance that naturally occurs in animal tissues. The result is a wax-like, water-loving molecule that can mix oil and water with ease. Chemists started exploring cholesterol derivatives in the mid-20th century when they needed gentler surfactants for personal care. By adding ethylene oxide, they discovered a way to keep the mildness of cholesterol while boosting its ability to blend with water, which opened the door to wide cosmetic use.
Production begins with purified cholesterol sourced from wool grease, also called lanolin. The cholesterol is reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled heat and pressure. The average of 20 ethylene oxide units is important because it gives the ideal balance of oil-friendly and water-friendly parts for skin care formulas.
You will often spot Choleth-20 in rinse-off cleansers, facial masks, cream or gel moisturizers, exfoliating scrubs, makeup removers, micellar waters, sunscreens and hair conditioners. Brands favor it when they want a product that feels rich yet rinses clean.
Choleth-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Choleth-20 for two main reasons that make a noticeable difference in how a product looks, feels and performs on the skin.
- Cleansing: Its surfactant nature loosens dirt, oil and makeup so they can be rinsed away without harsh rubbing. This helps create gentle face washes and micellar waters that leave skin fresh not tight.
- Emulsifying: Choleth-20 keeps oil and water mixed together, preventing creams or lotions from separating in the jar. Stable emulsions spread smoothly and deliver active ingredients evenly for better results and a pleasant texture.
Who Can Use Choleth-20
Thanks to its mild cleansing action and balanced oil-to-water affinity Choleth-20 is generally well tolerated by normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Sensitive skin usually does fine too because the ingredient is non-stripping, though those with a known lanolin allergy should steer clear since the cholesterol base is sourced from wool grease.
Because its starting material comes from sheep wool Choleth-20 is not considered vegan friendly. Most vegetarians are comfortable using it because the wool is obtained without harming the animal, but strict vegans will want to avoid it or look for a plant-derived alternative.
Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Choleth-20 is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at typical concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to the sun and there are no known interactions with common topical actives such as retinoids or acids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Choleth-20 differ from person to person. The issues below are possibilities only and most people will never notice any of them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation, especially on compromised or very sensitive skin
- Contact allergy in individuals sensitive to lanolin derivatives
- Eye stinging if a cleanser containing Choleth-20 is not rinsed thoroughly
- Rare scalp or facial redness when used in hair products that drip onto the skin
If any discomfort, redness or swelling appears stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Although Choleth-20 is derived from cholesterol, the added ethylene oxide units make it highly water soluble so it does not settle inside pores or form heavy occlusive films. Most formulas also rinse off easily which further lowers clogging potential. Those prone to acne or breakouts can usually use products containing Choleth-20 without issues. In exceptionally rich leave-on creams it could contribute to congestion if paired with other pore-clogging oils but on its own the risk is minimal.
Summary
Choleth-20 serves two key roles in cosmetics: it acts as a gentle cleanser by lifting oil and debris away from skin and hair and it reliably emulsifies oil-and-water mixtures so creams, lotions and gels stay smooth and stable. These abilities come from its unique structure, where the cholesterol part bonds with oils while the ethoxylated part grabs onto water, letting it bridge the two phases with ease.
The ingredient is moderately popular: not as ubiquitous as classic emulsifiers like polysorbates yet favored by brands that want a luxurious feel combined with mild cleansing power. Overall safety data are solid with low irritation and allergy rates apart from individuals sensitive to lanolin derivatives. While Choleth-20 is considered safe for most users it is always wise to patch test a new product to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.