What Is Chymotrypsin?
Chymotrypsin is a protein-based enzyme best known for its role in breaking down other proteins. In nature it is found in the pancreas of mammals where it aids digestion, but the version used in cosmetics is usually produced through controlled fermentation of microorganisms or by extraction from bovine pancreatic tissue followed by thorough purification. Chemically it belongs to the serine protease family and consists of long chains of amino acids folded into a precise three-dimensional shape that gives it its activity.
The enzyme was first isolated in the early twentieth century during studies of digestive processes. Researchers soon noticed that its gentle, targeted protein-cleaving action could help remove dead surface cells without harsh scrubbing. As cosmetic science advanced manufacturers began adding carefully processed chymotrypsin to topical formulas to support smoother looking skin. Today the ingredient appears in rinse-off enzyme masks, exfoliating cleansers, anti-aging serums, brightening peels and some specialty moisturizers aimed at refining skin texture.
Chymotrypsin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care chymotrypsin serves one main purpose: skin conditioning. By selectively digesting the bonds that hold dead surface cells together, the enzyme helps clear away dull buildup. This mild enzymatic exfoliation leaves skin feeling softer and looking more even. When incorporated at safe concentrations it can enhance the overall efficacy of a formulation, allowing other beneficial ingredients to penetrate more easily and promoting a fresh, renewed appearance.
Who Can Use Chymotrypsin
Formulas containing chymotrypsin are generally suitable for dry, normal and oily skin thanks to the enzyme’s gentle, non-abrasive exfoliating action. Sensitive or compromised skin can also tolerate it in well-formulated products, yet those with active eczema, psoriasis or open lesions may prefer to avoid it until the skin barrier is stable because even mild enzymatic activity can cause stinging on broken skin.
Most commercially available chymotrypsin today comes from either bovine pancreatic extract or fermentation of microbial cultures. Because an animal source is sometimes used, strict vegans will likely skip products that do not specify a microbial or recombinant origin, while many vegetarians may feel the same. Anyone following a plant-only lifestyle should look for labels that state “microbial chymotrypsin” or “non-animal derived.”
Current research has not flagged topical chymotrypsin as unsafe for pregnant or breastfeeding women. That said this is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should confirm suitability with their healthcare provider.
The enzyme does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Normal daily sunscreen use is still advised to protect freshly exfoliated skin.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical chymotrypsin differ between individuals. The following are potential side effects yet they are unlikely to occur for most users when the ingredient is included at appropriate levels in a professionally formulated product.
- Mild tingling or warmth a fleeting sensation some users notice as the enzyme starts working on dead surface cells
- Temporary redness brief flushing that usually fades within minutes after rinsing
over-exfoliation can leave skin feeling tight if the product is left on longer than directed - Irritation for damaged skin stinging or discomfort when applied to areas with cuts, active dermatitis or severe barrier impairment
- Allergic contact dermatitis rare immune response resulting in itching, swelling or rash
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and seek guidance from a qualified medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5. Chymotrypsin is a water-soluble enzyme that does not leave an occlusive film on the skin and contains no fatty components that could clog pores. Because it rinses away easily after performing its exfoliating action, it poses virtually no risk of trapping sebum or debris in follicles. For these reasons it is considered suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Any breakout activity linked to products containing chymotrypsin is more likely due to other formula ingredients such as heavy oils, waxes or silicones rather than the enzyme itself.
Summary
Chymotrypsin is a protein-digesting enzyme used in skincare for gentle, non-abrasive exfoliation that smooths texture and boosts skin conditioning. By selectively breaking the bonds between dead surface cells, it clears dull buildup and can help other actives penetrate more effectively.
Although effective, it remains a niche ingredient compared with better-known exfoliants like glycolic acid or papain, tending to appear in specialty masks, peels and high-end serums rather than mainstream cleansers.
Topically applied chymotrypsin is generally safe for most skin types with a very low risk of sensitization when used as directed. As with any new product, perform a patch test first to confirm personal tolerance before full-face application.