What Is Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate?
Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate is a man-made polymer created when citric acid, propylene glycol and succinic acid react and are then capped with lauric acid, a fatty acid found in coconut and palm oils. Each piece of this chain adds something useful: citric acid brings mild acidity, propylene glycol offers a water-loving backbone, succinic acid adds flexibility and lauric acid gives an oil-friendly tail. Together they form a stable, film-forming material that acts as a bridge between water and oil phases in many personal care formulas.
The blend was first explored in the late 1990s as chemists searched for plant-inspired alternatives to older synthetic binders. By linking small, well-known acids with propylene glycol they produced a copolymer that was easier to process, had a lower environmental impact than some petroleum-based resins and showed good skin tolerance. Once the ingredient passed standard safety tests it began appearing in commercial creams and lotions during the early 2000s.
Manufacturing starts with food-grade citric and succinic acids plus pharmaceutical propylene glycol. The acids are combined with the glycol under heat in the presence of a catalyst. After the chains reach the right length, lauric acid is added to “cap” the ends, locking the structure and controlling how the polymer behaves in water and oil. The finished material is purified, dried and ground into a fine powder or supplied as a pre-diluted liquid for easier mixing.
You will most often see Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate in moisturizers, sunscreens, BB creams, hair styling gels, sheet masks and anti-aging serums where it helps hold the formula together and keep the texture smooth.
Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays a single but important role in beauty products.
Binding: As a binder it keeps the mix of oils, water and powders from separating so the product stays uniform from the first use to the last. A stable blend means active ingredients are delivered evenly to the skin, textures feel consistent and shelf life improves without the need for heavy waxes or high levels of synthetic stabilizers.
Who Can Use Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate
This polymer is gentle and non-comedogenic, so it suits most skin types including dry, oily, combination and mature skin. Its film-forming nature helps lock in moisture without leaving a heavy or greasy feel, which is a plus for those prone to breakouts. Extremely sensitive or eczema-prone skin may want to watch for any tingling because propylene glycol derivatives can rarely cause irritation in that group.
The ingredient is sourced from plant-based acids and lauric acid that comes from coconut or palm oils. No animal-derived components are involved in standard manufacturing, making it acceptable for vegetarians and vegans as long as the finished product also meets their criteria.
Current safety data show no issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding because the molecule is large and sits on the surface of the skin. This is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should check with their healthcare provider before adding new products just to be safe.
Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. There are no known interactions with common actives like retinol, vitamin C or AHAs, and it plays well in both rinse-off and leave-on formulas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate differ from person to person. The points below list potential issues, but most users who encounter the ingredient in a properly formulated product will experience none of them.
Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
Contact dermatitis in people with a known allergy to propylene glycol or fatty acid derivatives
Temporary stinging if applied to freshly exfoliated or broken skin
Eye irritation if the product accidentally enters the eyes
If any discomfort or adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Although the polymer is capped with lauric acid, the fatty acid is locked into a large water-oil bridging structure that sits on the surface and is easily rinsed away, so it has very little chance of sinking into pores and clogging them. This makes it suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. The only caveat is that formulas using exceptionally high percentages of the ingredient, such as thick balms, could feel heavier on extremely oily skin, but even then the risk of actual comedones remains low.
Summary
Citric Acid/Propylene Glycol/Succinic Acid Copolymer Laurate is mainly a binder and film former that pulls watery and oily ingredients into a smooth stable blend, improving texture, spreadability and shelf life without greasy buildup. It is not a star active so it does not get much marketing attention, yet formulators appreciate its reliability and mildness which is why it keeps showing up in moisturizers, sunscreens and hybrid makeup products.
Current safety data class it as low risk with only rare reports of irritation in very sensitive users. Even so, skin can react unpredictably so it is always smart to patch test a new product that contains this copolymer before full-face use.