Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate?

Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate is a liquid derived from letting satsuma mandarin (Citrus unshiu) fruit ferment naturally with plain cane sugar. During fermentation friendly microorganisms break down the fruit sugars and release a host of skin-loving compounds such as natural alpha hydroxy acids, vitamins and amino acids. The finished mixture is then filtered to remove solids, leaving a clear, water-light fluid that is easy to add to skincare formulas.

Fermented fruit ingredients first gained attention in East Asian beauty traditions where they were prized for their gentle exfoliation and brightening effects. As interest in “clean” and biotech-driven skincare grew, formulators began using controlled fermentation to unlock more benefits from familiar botanicals like mandarin. Today the filtrate shows up in modern products because it offers hydration and a soothing feel without heavy oils.

The process is simple yet effective: ripe Citrus unshiu fruit is crushed, mixed with sucrose and kept at a warm temperature so naturally present yeast and bacteria can go to work. Over several days they convert sugars into smaller molecules that the skin can easily absorb. After fermentation the mixture is carefully filtered and preserved for stability.

You are most likely to find Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate in lightweight moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet masks, calming toners and anti-aging treatments that aim to boost glow and softness without clogging pores.

Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

When added to a formula this fermented fruit filtrate supports the skin in two main ways:

  • Humectant: The filtrate attracts water from the environment and helps lock it into the outer layers of the skin. This immediate moisture boost can leave the complexion looking plumper and feeling more comfortable throughout the day.
  • Skin conditioning: The natural blend of amino acids, mild fruit acids and vitamins smooths rough spots, improves softness and can contribute to an overall brighter appearance. Regular use may help maintain a balanced skin barrier and reduce the look of dullness.

Who Can Use Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate

This fermented mandarin filtrate is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Its lightweight water-like texture supplies hydration without heavy oils, making it a welcome addition for dry, normal, combination and oily complexions. Sensitive or easily reactive skin usually finds it non-stingy, though anyone with a known citrus allergy should proceed with caution because trace fruit proteins may remain after filtration.

The ingredient is produced from plant material (satsuma mandarin) and cane sugar, with fermentation carried out by naturally occurring microorganisms. No animal-derived substances are involved, so the filtrate itself is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full product label in case the finished formula contains beeswax, collagen or other animal sourced additives.

There is no evidence that topically applied Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It acts on the surface of the skin, is used at low concentrations and is not known to penetrate deeply enough to reach the bloodstream. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run new skincare products by their healthcare provider to be on the safe side.

The filtrate is not considered photosensitising. It contains only a trace level of natural fruit acids so it does not typically make skin more prone to sunburn, though daily sunscreen is still recommended as a general best practice.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate differ from person to person. The points below list potential but unlikely reactions when the ingredient is used at standard levels in properly formulated products. Most people will not notice any of these issues.

  • Mild stinging or tingling particularly on freshly exfoliated or broken skin
  • Temporary redness in very sensitive users due to the natural fruit acids
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to citrus fruit proteins
  • Dryness or tightness if combined with multiple exfoliating acids in the same routine
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes

If any of these effects occur stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5 (non-comedogenic)

Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate is a water-light fluid that contains virtually no oils, waxes or heavy fatty acids. Its molecules are small, predominantly humectants and fruit-derived nutrients that sit on the skin surface or draw in moisture rather than blocking pores. Because it lacks clogging lipids it earns the lowest possible score.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

The only time congestion might occur is if the filtrate is blended into a formula rich in comedogenic oils so always look at the full ingredient list of the finished product.

Summary

Citrus Unshiu Fruit/Sucrose Ferment Filtrate acts mainly as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. Fermentation breaks down mandarin sugars and releases amino acids, mild alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins that bind water, soften texture and subtly brighten the complexion.

While not as famous as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide the filtrate is gaining traction in K-beauty inspired toners, serums and masks thanks to its feather-light feel and clean label appeal.

Current data shows it is very safe for topical use with low risk of irritation or sensitisation. As with any new skincare ingredient a quick patch test is smart to confirm personal compatibility.

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