What Is Dea-Myristate?
Dea-Myristate, officially known as bis(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium myristate, is a compound made by joining myristic acid with diethanolamine. Myristic acid is a fatty acid that naturally shows up in coconut oil, palm kernel oil and nutmeg, while diethanolamine is a water-loving molecule often used in cosmetic chemistry. When the two meet, the result is a salt that likes both oil and water, a handy trait for many beauty formulas.
Surfactants based on fatty acids became popular in the middle of the twentieth century as gentler alternatives to soaps that could leave skin feeling tight. Dea-Myristate followed soon after, giving formulators another mild option for lifting away dirt and blending oil with water.
Making Dea-Myristate is straightforward: manufacturers react purified myristic acid with diethanolamine in controlled conditions until they form the desired salt, then filter and test it for quality. The finished ingredient is usually a clear to pale yellow liquid or paste that dissolves easily in water.
You will spot Dea-Myristate in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, makeup removers, lightweight lotions, rinse-off masks and even some shaving creams. Wherever a product needs to mix oil, water and grime without harshness, this ingredient often fits the bill.
Dea-Myristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Dea-Myristate serves a couple of key roles that help products feel pleasant and work well on skin or hair.
- Cleansing: Its surfactant nature loosens and lifts away oil, sweat and everyday buildup so they rinse off easily, leaving skin or hair feeling fresh without stripping natural moisture
- Emulsifying: Because it bonds with both oil and water, it keeps creams, lotions and washes smoothly blended, preventing separation and giving formulas a stable, uniform texture
Who Can Use Dea-Myristate
Thanks to its mild cleansing action Dea-Myristate suits most skin types, including oily, combination, normal and even many sensitive complexions. Very dry or eczema-prone skin may prefer richer surfactants as this ingredient can remove a bit of the skin’s natural oils if used in high amounts or in very foamy cleansers.
Dea-Myristate is typically sourced from plant fats such as coconut or palm kernel oil, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the manufacturer confirms a plant origin and no animal testing is involved.
The ingredient is considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run any skincare routine past a doctor to be on the safe side.
Dea-Myristate does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with most other common skincare ingredients which helps formulators build gentle, user-friendly products.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Dea-Myristate differ from one person to the next. The points below outline potential issues yet most users will not experience them when products are made correctly and used as directed.
- Mild skin redness or stinging, especially on already irritated or very dry skin
- Transient eye irritation if the cleanser gets into the eyes
- Contact allergy presenting as itching or small rash in people sensitive to fatty acid DEA salts
- Dryness or tightness if used too frequently without follow-up moisturiser
- Scalp buildup or dull hair if not rinsed out thoroughly from shampoos
If you notice any of these reactions stop use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Dea-Myristate is water soluble and designed to be rinsed away, so it leaves very little oily residue that could clog pores. While it contains a fatty acid, its salt form plus its use at low levels in cleansing or emulsifying formulas keeps pore blockage risk minimal.
Generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because Dea-Myristate is most often found in wash-off products, any brief contact it has with skin further lowers the chance of buildup inside pores.
Summary
Dea-Myristate works mainly as a gentle cleanser and as an emulsifier that holds oil and water together. Its amphiphilic structure lets one end grab grime and the other stay friendly with water so dirt, makeup and excess sebum lift away when you rinse.
The ingredient has a quiet, steady presence rather than star status. It appears in many everyday face and body washes but seldom gets top billing on labels.
When used as intended Dea-Myristate is considered low risk, with irritation or allergy being uncommon. As with any new skincare product, doing a quick patch test first is a smart way to check personal tolerance.