Deoxyglutamyl Fructose: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Deoxyglutamyl Fructose?

Deoxyglutamyl Fructose is a lab made compound formally known as 1-Deoxy-1-(1,3-dicarboxypropyl)aminofructose. It pairs a sugar unit, fructose, with a modified amino acid side chain. The result is a water loving molecule that can hold moisture and bond gently to the surface of skin and nails.

The ingredient was first explored in the early 2000s when formulators sought plant sugar derivatives that could do more than simple hydration. By attaching a glutamic acid–like group minus one oxygen atom, chemists created a substance that sticks around longer on skin while staying mild and non sticky. Over time it moved from lab tests into commercial moisturizers and nail treatments as a safe alternative to heavier humectants such as glycerin.

Production starts with food grade fructose that is reacted with a protected amino acid derivative under controlled heat and pH. After several purification steps, the finished powder is white, water soluble and stable across a wide pH range, making it easy to add during the cool down phase of a formula.

You will most often see Deoxyglutamyl Fructose in light creams, hydrating serums, sheet masks, hand lotions, cuticle oils, anti aging concentrates and leave on treatments aimed at boosting surface moisture or improving nail flexibility.

Deoxyglutamyl Fructose’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking molecule offers several helpful roles in topical products

  • Humectant: Attracts and binds water from the environment and deeper skin layers, helping formulas keep skin plump and comfortable without a greasy feel
  • Nail conditioning: Softens the nail plate and surrounding cuticle so nails stay flexible, reducing brittleness and peeling
  • Skin conditioning: Forms a light film that smooths rough patches, enhancing overall texture and giving skin a refreshed look

Who Can Use Deoxyglutamyl Fructose

Because it is a lightweight humectant with a low irritation profile, Deoxyglutamyl Fructose suits most skin types including oily, combination, dry and mature skin. Its water-binding action adds moisture without the heaviness that can bother acne-prone complexions while the mild nature of the molecule makes it generally comfortable for sensitive skin. Individuals with a known allergy to sugar derivatives or amino acid-based ingredients should approach carefully, otherwise few restrictions apply.

The ingredient is produced entirely from plant sugars and lab-synthesized amino acid fragments, so no animal-derived materials are involved at any stage. That makes products containing Deoxyglutamyl Fructose suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No published data link this compound to hormonal disruption or other concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Topical use in standard cosmetic concentrations is considered low risk, but this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review any skincare product with their healthcare provider before use.

Deoxyglutamyl Fructose does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to sun exposure, so extra daylight precautions are not required beyond normal daily sunscreen use. It is also compatible with most common actives, fragrances and preservatives, which helps formulators build gentle products with minimal risk of ingredient conflicts.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Deoxyglutamyl Fructose vary between individuals. The points below outline potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is included at standard cosmetic levels and manufactured correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Transient stinging on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Itchiness or rash in those with a specific allergy to sugar-based humectants
  • Rare cases of contact dermatitis when used in high concentrations
  • Breakouts triggered by other components in the same formula rather than the ingredient itself

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use immediately and consult a qualified healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5  Deoxyglutamyl Fructose is completely water soluble and leaves no oily residue that could collect within pores, which places it at the lowest spot on the comedogenic scale. Its molecules stay on the surface to pull in moisture instead of sinking into and blocking follicles. It is therefore considered safe for skin that breaks out easily, and most acne-prone users should have no issues using products that feature this ingredient. The only caveat is that the overall formula matters: if the product also contains heavy oils or waxes those components, not Deoxyglutamyl Fructose, could still trigger congestion.

Summary

Deoxyglutamyl Fructose works as a humectant by latching onto water molecules, as a skin conditioner by forming a light smoothing film, and as a nail conditioner by softening the keratin structure so nails bend instead of snap. Each benefit comes from its unique pairing of a sugar backbone with a modified amino acid side chain, which boosts water attraction and surface adhesion without adding greasiness.

Although it is not yet a mainstream buzzword like hyaluronic acid, the ingredient has carved out a steady spot in hydrating serums, hand creams and nail treatments thanks to its gentle profile and easy compatibility. Formulators appreciate that it delivers extra slip and moisture without forcing them to raise the oil content of a product.

Current safety data show very low irritation risk at normal cosmetic levels. Still, everyone’s skin is different, so it is smart to try any new product containing Deoxyglutamyl Fructose on a small area first to rule out surprise sensitivities.

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