What Is Dextran?
Dextran is a large chain of glucose molecules produced through the natural fermentation of sucrose by certain strains of bacteria, most often Leuconostoc mesenteroides. The result is a water-soluble polysaccharide that looks like a fine white powder once dried.
First discovered in the late 1800s during studies of sugar beet juice, dextran gained industrial attention in the 1940s. Its ability to hold water and stabilize solutions quickly made it useful beyond food processing, leading formulators to test it in skin care for its texture-improving qualities.
Commercial production starts with a controlled fermentation tank where the bacteria convert sucrose into dextran. The mixture is then purified, filtered, and spray-dried to create a consistent cosmetic-grade powder.
Today dextran appears in sheet masks, lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, soothing gels, under-eye treatments, and even some color cosmetics where a smooth glide and flexible film are needed.
Dextran’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas dextran mainly does two jobs that improve both the feel and performance of a product
- Binding – Helps hold ingredients together so the formula stays uniform, prevents separation, and ensures each pump or swipe delivers the same mix of actives
- Viscosity controlling – Thickens water-based products just enough to create a silky texture that spreads easily without feeling sticky, allowing chemists to fine-tune a lotion, serum, or gel to the ideal consistency
Who Can Use Dextran
Dextran is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, sensitive, normal and combination because it is water soluble and has a low potential to clog pores or cause irritation. Extremely acne prone individuals who react to any thickening agents may want to proceed carefully, although dextran itself is not considered comedogenic.
The ingredient is produced by fermenting plant-derived sucrose with bacteria, so it contains no animal products and is appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current research shows no evidence that topical dextran poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare professional before use.
Dextran is not known to increase photosensitivity and can be used alongside daytime sun exposure as long as a separate broad-spectrum sunscreen is applied.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from applying dextran to the skin can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential reactions only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated in a cosmetic product.
- Mild redness or warmth at the application site
- Temporary stinging when applied to broken or highly irritated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis resulting in itching, swelling or rash
- Exacerbation of existing acne if used in an overly rich or occlusive formula
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Dextran is a large water-soluble sugar molecule that dissolves completely in the watery phase of a formula and leaves no oily or waxy residue on the skin. Because it does not sit inside pores or form a film that traps sebum it earns the lowest possible rating of 0. This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
As with any non-comedogenic ingredient the finished product still matters. If dextran is blended into a heavy cream packed with rich oils the overall formula could clog pores even though dextran itself will not.
Summary
Dextran helps cosmetic products stay mixed and feel just right. It acts as a binder that keeps ingredients evenly dispersed and as a gentle thickener that gives serums gels and creams a smooth glide without stickiness.
While not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or retinol dextran is quietly popular behind the scenes, especially in sheet masks and lightweight hydrating formulas where a clean silky texture is key.
Topically applied dextran has a solid safety record and very low risk of irritation or clogged pores. As with any new skin care product it is smart to do a small patch test first to ensure your skin agrees with the full formula.