What Is Dextrin Myristate?
Dextrin myristate is an ester created by joining myristic acid, a fatty acid found in nut and seed oils, with dextrin, a starch-derived carbohydrate. The pairing gives the ingredient both oil-loving and water-loving parts, a balance that makes it useful in modern skin care and makeup. It first appeared in cosmetic labs in the late 1970s when formulators were looking for plant-based alternatives to mineral oils for smoother, lighter textures. Production begins with corn or potato starch that is broken down into dextrin, then reacted with purified myristic acid under controlled heat and pressure. The result is a fine, off-white powder that disperses easily in both oils and water-based mixtures. Today you will spot dextrin myristate in pressed powders, liquid foundations, cream blushes, sunscreens, stick balms, hair styling pastes and even sheet mask essences where it helps keep the formula stable and pleasant to use.
Dextrin Myristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for dextrin myristate because it performs several helpful jobs in a single ingredient.
- Anticaking – Prevents clumping in loose and pressed powders so the product spreads smoothly and gives an even finish on skin
- Cleansing – Lifts away dirt and excess oil without stripping, making it a gentle helper in face washes and micellar lotions
- Emulsifying – Holds water and oil together, creating stable creams and lotions that stay uniform during shelf life and glide on easily
Who Can Use Dextrin Myristate
Dextrin myristate is generally considered suitable for normal, dry, combination and mature skin thanks to its silky, lightweight texture and mild cleansing ability. Oily or very acne-prone skin can also use it, but because the ingredient is a fatty ester some people in this group may prefer lower concentrations or non-occlusive formulas to keep pores clear. Sensitive skin usually tolerates dextrin myristate well since it lacks common irritants such as fragrance or alcohol.
The ingredient is plant derived, coming from starch and plant oils, so it aligns with most vegan and vegetarian standards. If a product is labeled vegan the manufacturer has verified that no animal sources were used in the supply chain.
Dextrin myristate has no known hormonal activity so it is viewed as low risk for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review new skincare with a qualified healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ester does not increase photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide and peptides, making it versatile in both day and night routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical dextrin myristate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Temporary clogged pores in individuals highly prone to comedones
- Allergic contact dermatitis in those with a specific sensitivity to fatty esters
- Eye irritation if powder or cream accidentally gets into the eyes
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5. Dextrin myristate contains a fatty acid component that can, in higher amounts, sit on skin and trap sebum, yet its starch-based backbone limits that occlusive effect so it is less likely to block pores than straight myristic acid. Most leave-on formulas use it at modest levels mainly for slip and stability, keeping the overall risk low.
Suitable for acne-prone users who are comfortable with mildly occlusive ingredients, but those who break out easily may prefer lighter formulations or rinse-off products.
Formula context matters. When paired with lightweight oils and good emulsifiers the ingredient disperses evenly and its pore-blocking potential drops, while heavy waxes or high percentages can push the rating higher.
Summary
Dextrin myristate acts as an anticaking agent that keeps powders free flowing, a gentle cleanser that lifts oil and grime, and an emulsifier that knits water and oil into smooth lotions. It does this by combining the oil-loving tail of myristic acid with the water-friendly body of dextrin, giving it surfactant and stabilizing properties in one.
The ingredient sits in a middle ground of popularity: common enough to appear in many face powders, stick foundations and hybrid skincare, yet not so ubiquitous that it dominates labels the way silicones or glycerin do.
Safety studies and decades of cosmetic use rate it as low risk for irritation or systemic harm. Still, every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product containing dextrin myristate to confirm personal tolerance.