What Is Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a specialty ester made by joining dilinoleic acid, which comes from plant oils such as soybean or sunflower, with very long chain fatty alcohols that contain 20 to 40 carbon atoms. Chemists began using it in the 1990s when the industry was looking for plant based options that gave formulas a richer feel than mineral oil without leaving a heavy film. Production involves heating the natural fatty acid and alcohol together with a catalyst so they react and form a smooth, wax-like liquid that is easily blended into creams and sticks. Because it melts near skin temperature and adds a silky slip, you will often find it in lipsticks, lip balms, solid perfumes, moisturizers, sunscreens, anti-aging creams, hair conditioners and even long-wear makeup.
Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is chosen for two main reasons that improve how a product looks, feels and performs on the skin.
- Skin conditioning: It forms a soft, flexible layer that helps lock in moisture so skin feels smooth and cushioned. The light occlusive effect can also make fine lines appear less noticeable by filling surface gaps.
- Viscosity controlling: Its thick, waxy texture builds body in creams, lotions and sticks which keeps the formula from separating and gives it a pleasant glide during application.
Who Can Use Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate
This silky ester suits most skin types including normal, dry and mature skin because it adds comfort without feeling overly greasy. Oily or very acne prone skin may want to use it in lighter formulas only, as rich occlusives can sometimes sit heavily on pores if applied in thick layers.
The ingredient is made from plant derived fatty alcohols and fatty acids, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal sourced materials or by-products are used during standard manufacturing.
Current safety data shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse off or leave on cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare provider before adding new products to their routine.
Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn during daytime alongside sunscreen. It is also stable with most common actives such as retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide, so formulators can pair it with a wide range of ingredients.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate differ from person to person. The points below describe potential side effects that are considered uncommon. When properly formulated most users will not run into these problems.
- Transient pore clogging on very oily or acne prone skin
- Mild redness or stinging if applied to freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases of individual sensitivity to fatty alcohols
- Eye discomfort if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 / 5
Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an ester that sits on skin to reduce moisture loss, but its structure is bulkier than simple fatty oils so it does not slip as deeply into pores. Most formulators and anecdotal reports place it in the low-to-moderate clogging range, similar to ingredients like jojoba esters. In lightweight or well-balanced products it generally behaves well on skin, yet high concentrations in thick balms may still feel heavy for those with very oily complexions. Overall it is usually tolerated by combination skin though extremely acne-prone users might prefer to limit or avoid it in richer leave-on products.
Comedogenicity can also depend on the entire formula, application amount and how thoroughly the product is removed at the end of the day. Pairing the ester with non-occlusive emollients and good cleansing habits further reduces any breakout risk.
Summary
Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a plant-derived ester that conditions skin by forming a soft moisturising film and controls viscosity by adding body and glide to creams, sticks and balms. Its melt-at-skin-temperature texture gives products a luxe feel without relying on mineral oil.
The ingredient is moderately popular in natural inspired lip care, solid perfumes and long-wear makeup but it is still a niche choice compared with mainstream emollients like caprylic/capric triglyceride. Formulators who want a smooth renewable alternative often reach for it, so its presence has been growing steadily in recent years.
Current safety data and decades of cosmetic use show it is generally non-irritating and non-sensitising for most people. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test before full use, especially if you have reactive or acne-prone skin.